Sam's Swan Song
||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Phil Nelson, Sam Streibert, Alan Wedgewood, Mike Westmacott, Sally Westmacott/ August 1964|
|Page Views: ||1,748|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Nov 8, 2012|
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Mark Synnott belaying me coming up Sam's
When I climbed Sam's, the third pitch was intact. Sam's Swan Song, although easier than Moby Grape, has had climbers get killed and has had hospitalizing injuries. All accidents were due to human error.
We found our way up the first try. On the sixth pitch, Ted Hammond leading did an extreme variation missing the crux. Going left side up is the easiest. The crux high above the cow pasture goes through a pocket between blocks crossing upwards, to the entrance above the void an unseen corner. After corner belay. Straight forward easier route finding from this belay to finish. It used to be among the full length classic routes. It may have had to much rock fall to rate this high. It could be rated as low as a bomb. Thank you, very much Sam and company.
1. Climb corner or the Lightning Crack variation to belay on top of Buttress.
2. Move up and left to step across into shallow dike. Go up dike until able to ledges right of erosion rock.
3. Rock slides have changed this area. It was and is still potentially active. Its an ongoing process. No new info on area besides it is seriously doable and good for adventure. Climb what makes the most sense up the broken corner dike until able to move right.
4.Continue up corner until foot ledge right to shallow stance.
5. Up the easy ledges to the cow pasture, a large recessed ledge.
6. Many ways to get lost and not do this crux pitch. Some lost ways can be difficult. Right slanting crack heading towards where you think would be wrong to go is the route. Keep on heading for the most exposed way up and you'll stay on route. The more directions here I think the worst off you'll understand. Most exposed and steep becomes no exposure and excellent crack corner to belay
7. Straight up to belay under small cracked overhang.
8. Take overhang crack to vegetation and finish where you're comfortable.
Left side of Sam's Buttress
looking south out of the notch
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 10, 2012
Bradley- just because it's long and moderate, doesn't make it a classic.
By bradley white
Dec 10, 2012
I didn't create the rating. Rating is from guide books. The climbing community is redefining rock climbing from rock mountaineering. This is a meandering rock mountaineer's route up a very steep area. It had great importance during its ascent. Almost none now besides lightning crack.
By Robert Hall
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
This was supposed to be Sam Streibert's "Swan Song": HA! 50+ years later and he's still climbing strong!
Most accidents occur because of being off-route; but, as Brad states, this is one of the more complex routes in NH.
I don't know if rockfall has affected this part of the route, but at one point about P4 one climbs up into a sort of "pea-pod-looking" crack, then continues up to where a fixed pin resided, and then traversed RIGHT on ledges and flakes to a move UP.