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Start up through poor rock which leads to a short chimney then up a nice, right-facing corner.
Next route to the left of Meat Ya Later.
Mostly #.75 - #2, something smaller for start.
a long as way up
lots of hands .. no gear for the first 40 ft er so...
|Comments on Samarai Loving
|By Phill T|
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
5.10 would be a sandbag and a half for this monster. there is a good 20 feet of _tight_ hands and/or ringlocks above the overhung section and then a move or three of fists/offwidth at the very top before the chains. There are decent rests in the good hands section and through the overhang, but its pretty sustained up top. definitely takes 2 ropes to get down, even a 70 wont quite make it if you scramble up and right and belay on the ledge up there. Well worth doing despite the sandy start, but it aint no straightforward 5.10.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2010
Evidently this is an old Bandito route, at least judging from the old "Bandito" stamped aluminum hanger. The other hanger is a thin, old hanger and while the bolts are tight, eventually someone will probably want to add some fresh hardware. This route deserves it, it's a sweet line.