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New route left of La Chaim that starts from a huge ledge about 60 feet above the base of The Pear.
Either approach the ledge by doing a short easy pitch that starts up La Chaim and breaks left, or third class up the gully below A Pig With Earrings for 50 feet and tunnel right under a huge flake to the ledge. From the ledge, the route is one long (180 feet) pitch to the walkoff ledge -- 60 meter rope is essential. Look for the first bolt about 8 feet below a small one foot overhang that is about 15 feet long and 20 feet above the ledge. Passing this bolt is the crux. Plug a small cam under the overhang, climb past two more bolts on easy but superb face to the long roof left of La Chaim. Turn the roof directly above the third bolt (5.8). Just above the lip of the roof, you can get a good 2.5 inch cam to the right or a smaller cam higher and left which provide great pro for the roof moves. Climb straight up face past two more bolts. From the last bolt, diagonal up and right to a grassy wide crack (2-3 inch pro). This crack joins La Chaim about 20 feet below the walkoff ledge.
Note: all bolts are 3/8 X 2.5 inch Rawl 5-piece with Metolius hangers, hand drilled from stance on the lead.
5 bolts, 3/4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3 inch cams
Climbing the finger crack on La Chaim.
P1 with 5.5s variation start 9/10/3.
|By Frances Fierst|
From: Manila, Philippines
Sep 17, 2002
This is a nice mixed route. It has either bolts or protectable features every time before you make a committing move. This is a safe lead for a newer leader who is trying to push their grades. If you have hiked all the way over to the Pear to climb Enema Syringe, then take the time, and do this one also!
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2002
Mixed route? At first I though you meant this was a good winter route, but I think you refer to sport mixed with trad.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 26, 2003
I climbed this route last week. Great job bolting it. The bolts are judiciously placed so they are only there when gear isn't available. A leader can concentrate on the climbing and not worry about the fall potential. This will be a popular one when the word gets out.Brian
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 11, 2003
Variation 1: lengthen the route by starting near the nadir of the flatiron below with 5.5 s climbing using small Aliens, continue up to clip the 1st 3 bolts and belay at La Chaim's P1 belay. Variation 2: after you get the P2 crack, you can angle L to the tree at 5.6 s for some nice friction. We didn't have this description beforehand.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A fun pitch; worth doing if you're in the area.
We scrambled up an easy right-facing corner to the big ledge at the start of the route. The hardest move is at the first bolt; after that, the climbing is much easier.
The roof at the third bolt seemed about 5.7 at most, but I may have climbed it left of the bolt instead of straight above the bolt.
One more tricky move leads to the hand and fist crack near the end of the pitch; this crack is low-angled and quite easy.
This would be a two-star route if the climbing were more sustained.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 26, 2005
The 'small cam' under the first roof (between 2nd & 3rd) bolts is a 1/4" (yellow TCU) or nut. 2 soloists on it the day I was there. One human and one chipmunk.
Sep 15, 2006
A fun route. I always seem to end up doing it when I visit Errett.
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I thought this route was pretty fun. The bolts are well spaced but placed just where you need them. There is a pretty substantial runout when you start to angle right after the last bolt but it is on easy terrain. The last move to gain the crack definitely got may attention because the crack was wet. Bring a couple small cams and (of course!) the pink tricam was useful.