Salt Lake Slips proves that good things can come in small packages. There are only a handful of routes here, but I'll take this sort of quality over quantity any time.
Immediately to the left, there is a 40' cave area with some wicked sport climbs. Up and to the right are several moderate bolted routes.
Salt Lake Slips is about 2.45 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon on the left side.
Enter through the Storm Mountain Picnic Area, cross the bridge, and walk west past the Storm Mountain Amphitheater.
Go up the hill, turn south, and follow the trail (turning southwest) to the top of the gully above the Slips. Descend the gully to the routes.
During very low water periods, you can park on the road opposite the climbs and safely cross the river. However, crossing the river at any other time is extremely dangerous; people have died attempting it.
This is one tough climb, steep and prolonged, with odd angles. What makes it worse is that the anchors are hard to clip into. But, when you get clipped at the top you will feel on top of the world. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
The Slips are a great place to train a new climbing partner, as there are several relatively easy (5.6-5.8) sport routes side by side. There are also a few 5.10 routes around the corner. Nice variations in the climbs, and in a few hours you can do 3 or 4 routes. It is close to the base of BCC, so it's easy to get to after work in the summer.
To avoid crowds it is good to get there by 3 if you are with someone who is climb-shy. The wall is in the shade in the afternoon, and a climber could easily attach a top rope to any of the other routes instead of leading (if they wanted, but who'd do that?). All of the climbs seem to have their ratings because they have a short crux area, and otherwise they feel easier than rated, but are enjoyable anyway.
Whats the deal with access now? Still no tyrolean?
I found the trail hard to follow even knowing where it was supposed to end up. Had some friends go down the wrong drainage and get a bunch of poison ivy. I think there needs to be some Caryn's or something. A good landmark though is the lone tree that looks like a bonsai or an umbrella - walk towards it and keep going it should be the next gully. I thought it was fun instead of going down the deadly scree field switch back thing to go over to the second pitch of whatever and rap down. Going up and out the gully isn't so bad.
The approach should be abridged in the present description. ooo's map is the correct way, especially during high water periods. Volunteers with the SLCA have built a great trail over from Storm Mountain. Use it. Kudos JK!
By Tim Golden From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 8, 2011
The hike from Storm Mountain Picnic Area is around 15 minutes depending on fast you hike. There are a couple meandering paths through the brush on the ridge, but I think they all lead to the same entrance down some loose flat rocks. The water has been low enough to cross since mid August 2011. Going in you can jump across some rocks. Coming back out the jumps are a little harder, so we just walked through the water.
The Zombie Corners are up! Climb anything between Italian Arete and Zombieland--once on the ledge make your way to the far right anchors. From there check out Zombieland's second pitch, Double Tap, and Chalking Dead. All super fun!
During high water these are a fun way to gain the ridge while avoiding the gully on your way out to Storm Mountain!