|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 45'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||°Team Feckin' Excellent!|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Year-round (whenever creek is crossable)|
|Page Views: ||340|
|Submitted By: ||Pinklebear on Aug 22, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Lost in a Lost World (right side)
Salami Mami (lef...
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This is the clean face immediately left of Lost in a Lost World, on the lower right tier of Lost Rock (basically, straight uphill from where you cross the creek, at the big boulder). It climbs seams and horizontals, passing five black-hangered bolts to anchors up and over the ledge. Please leave the lowering biners on the quicklinks; if you take them and lower through the quicklinks, then rope spaghetti will be your karmic reward. Also, step carefully around the little bansai tree passing the last boltólet it be, let it do its thing.
This is a fine, little, face climb with a couple of bouldery sequences in the middle. For full value, don't stem left off the back ramp at the third bolt. Hell, even if you do, you still have to step back on and pull a crux.
Just left of Lost in a Lost World on the lower-right tier of Lost Rock. To approach: park in the big pullout on the left just past the Boulderado/Animal World parking, where the road has the passing lane.
Cross the creek (boulder-hop or wade) at the big boulder, then basically head straight uphill in a little gully till you have to step up and right (easy fifth class; 10 feet) to get on a nice, broad grassy ledge.
This is the middle of the three routes. Five-minute approach, shade till 2 in summer.
Five bolts to double-bolt anchors.