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The Arrow Head Boulder
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Sailors Beware 

Sailors Beware 

Hueco: V0 Font: 4

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V0 Font: 4 [details]
FA: Tim Armstrong
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 331
Submitted By: Tim Waystrong on May 19, 2009

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Description 

Start on the low flake with a lot of chalk on it can't miss it. Bump up to a good hold with left hand then move right hand to a nice pinch pop up and grab another good hold with you left hand the next few holds are very sharp but awesome holds there are two ways to top out 1st is off to the right 2nd is over the very top of the boulder which is way more fun cause the last hold just feels awful but you can hold yourself there and get chalk if need be

Have fun it's a fun one


BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT THE PLANTS KEEP AN EYE OPEN AND WORK ON STAYING ON THE THIN PATH WITHOUT STEPPING ON THE PLANTS. PLEASE!!!



Location 

As you walk up towards Parking Lot Wall look left and you will see an overhanging boulder with good looking holds


Protection 

Pad good spotter



Comments on Sailors Beware Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 16, 2009
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 19, 2009

cant wait to get on this...

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 19, 2009

I would say it's around V0. I really don't think it's any harder than that just the overhang pumpyness of it that gets to you.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 19, 2009

is this the boulder thats kinda looks like an arrow head? its like really pointy at the top and doesnt really have a huge back to sit on? cuz ive been looking at that thing for a WICKED long time :)

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 19, 2009

I think so Mike if it's the one right as you walk past the kiosk at the Main Lot to the left than yes

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 20, 2009

Be very careful going off trail in this area. There are a lot of rare plants that Ward and Kori, our friendly FS ranger noticed. It might be better to put your developing efforts into other areas so as not to attract others stomping around here

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 20, 2009

There was already a little trail out there that I followed man I'm pretty sure that people had been out there before me but I have to agree this is def not a good boulder to have like ten people on and to be wicked careful or just not do it I guess

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 20, 2009

Yeah, they are tempting looking boulders. I have always been a little surprised at how little some of the great looking boulder problems right near the trail there have been climbed on. When Ward and I walked with the rangers a few weeks ago we looked at possibilities for access to the cave with the V10 (forgot the name atm) that would still preserve the plants. They had some ideas and seemed to be willing to put quite an effort into making it so we could still climb there. So, lets be really careful here with your feet and where you place your pads. The plants are all beside the beginning of the trail in back of the kiosk and all up to the left amongst the rocks.

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 20, 2009

Yeah man that sounds good I will have to find out what these plants look like and if they are over at that boulder than I will take this boulder off as soon as possible okay and that would be awesome to get to use the V10 boulder even though I can't climb V10 yet but still to be able to get around the plants somehow that would be sweet to not hurt or kill them so just let me know man

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 21, 2009

I think the V10 you are talking about may be named Parallel Universe, if you are talking about the perfectly horizontal roof problem.

Tim, maybe until we can figure out the place for the flowers, just post something letting people know about the plant life there, just a thought though buddy.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 21, 2009

No, it's not Parallel Universe. I think it's called Escape from Reality, and isn't it a V9?

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 22, 2009

Is that the boulder that's like literally in the cave just off the path to go up to Flesh For Lulu? Cause I have wanted to check that out so bad if that is it.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 22, 2009

he cave right off the trail is Escape from Reality V9... and yeah it looks sick...

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 23, 2009

Yes it does look sick man but I'm not sure if I can work a 9 or 10

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 16, 2009

Ward just posted this on NECimbs.com : "To anyone interested in doing the classic Rumney V9 "Escape from Reality," please do not use the approach from the Holderness Corner as listed in the old guide. There is a rare plant, cut-leaf toothwort, that is located in this area. The FS has erected a fence along the Meadows approach, and the hope is that this plant will be able to expand since there is additional suitable habitat in the area. Toothworts are "spring ephemerals" that flower before the leaves are on the trees, and then seem to dissapear. Hiking over them is bad.

Please approach the problem from the Parking Lot Wall trail; just where it makes a sharp right, instead head left. I will define an approach in this area the next time I'm up there.

Ward"