Sailing Shoes  5.10c PG13

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Type:  Sport, 35 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Chad Hilliard, Mike Trew 1997 Season:  Spring-Fall Submitted By:  TomCaldwell on Aug 29, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Getting established at the prominent roof.

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The big tough roof!

Gain the starting ledge and clip the first bolt. Climb through sustained slopers and crimps on the technical face to get established below the roof. Make the tough and scary clip under the roof. Don't blow this clip or you might slam the ledge below. Explode to the lip of the roof and make another big committing move to gain the often wet and dirty ledge above. Mantel onto the ledge and place some gear to protect the second during the crux. Clip the bolt out left or move right into the Stain's upper face. Climb either face to their respective anchors.

Location 

This is just left of the Stain under a large roof. Look for chalked up holds directly below a roof with a bolt underneath it.

Protection 

3 bolts and a single rack. Some long runners will help. Two bolt anchor at the top. A 60m or smaller will get you down.