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Saigon Boulder
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Monkey Dihedral 
Saigon 
Saigon Direct 

Saigon Direct 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jan 7, 2013

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Saigon Direct.

Description 

Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit. Move right from this hold with difficulty and rejoin Saigon for the finish.


Location 

Start as for Saigon and move right from the high pinch hold. The Superdirect (harder, scarier and even more proud) goes straight up from the pinch to slopers at the very top of the prow! I think the easiest downclimb option is to your right and down the slab from where you top out. Downclimbing the V0 patina face with care is also an option.


Protection 

The ground is like cement here so several pads and a really good spotter are ideal. An uncontrolled fall from the crux pinch/edge could really hurt on this one.



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By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 27, 2014