Sagittarius  5.10b/c

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Type:  Sport, 13 pitches, 1450 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Brigitte Brehm, Berti von Kaenel, Kuesu Kraauss, Tom Schlup, Roland Descloux Season:  Spring through autumn Submitted By:  Colin Winter on Dec 28, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The amazing 30 meter crack on pitch seven of Sagit...

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Description 

A modern line, offering varied climbing including slabs, corners, cracks and face climbing.

Although long, with the perfect bolting it can be climbing fairly quickly. The highlight of the route is the splitter 30 meter crack in the seventh pitch (6a+). The crux in the eigth pitch /(6b) is a delicate slab traverse underneath and around a small roof right at the start of the pitch. It can easily be aided if necessary.

Location 

Access the route via a long ledge system from the right. In the spring, there may be some snow ong the ledge, which could present access challenges.

Descent is by abseil down the route (and further, to the base of the wall, so as to avoid having to descend via the ledge).

Protection 

The route is perfectly bolted. The obligatory climbing grade is 5c+.

2x50 meter ropes.

Photos of Sagittarius Slideshow

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Pitch four of Sagittarius (5c+)	The friction crux early in pitch eight of Sagitarr...	The slick pitch nine of Satitarrius (6a)
Pitch three of Sagittarius (6a)