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A modern line, offering varied climbing including slabs, corners, cracks and face climbing.
Although long, with the perfect bolting it can be climbing fairly quickly. The highlight of the route is the splitter 30 meter crack in the seventh pitch (6a+). The crux in the eigth pitch /(6b) is a delicate slab traverse underneath and around a small roof right at the start of the pitch. It can easily be aided if necessary.
Access the route via a long ledge system from the right. In the spring, there may be some snow ong the ledge, which could present access challenges.
Descent is by abseil down the route (and further, to the base of the wall, so as to avoid having to descend via the ledge).
The route is perfectly bolted. The obligatory climbing grade is 5c+.
2x50 meter ropes.
Pitch four of Sagittarius (5c+)
The friction crux early in pitch eight of Sagitarr...
The slick pitch nine of Satitarrius (6a)
Pitch three of Sagittarius (6a)
|By James Garrett|
Aug 20, 2012
This climb is mega classic. I only wish it had a separate rap line perhaps off to the right as it can suffer from serious traffic jams. Very consistent route and every pitch is awesome. Jürg von Känel also deserves mention as the driving force on the FA and equipping the line.