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Gelmerfluh
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Sagittarius S 

Sagittarius 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 13 pitches, 1450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brigitte Brehm, Berti von Kaenel, Kuesu Kraauss, Tom Schlup, Roland Descloux
Season: Spring through autumn
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 28, 2011

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The slick pitch nine of Satitarrius (6a)

Description 

A modern line, offering varied climbing including slabs, corners, cracks and face climbing.

Although long, with the perfect bolting it can be climbing fairly quickly. The highlight of the route is the splitter 30 meter crack in the seventh pitch (6a+). The crux in the eigth pitch /(6b) is a delicate slab traverse underneath and around a small roof right at the start of the pitch. It can easily be aided if necessary.

Location 

Access the route via a long ledge system from the right. In the spring, there may be some snow ong the ledge, which could present access challenges.

Descent is by abseil down the route (and further, to the base of the wall, so as to avoid having to descend via the ledge).

Protection 

The route is perfectly bolted. The obligatory climbing grade is 5c+.

2x50 meter ropes.


Photos of Sagittarius Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch four of Sagittarius (5c+)
Pitch four of Sagittarius (5c+)
The amazing 30 meter crack on pitch seven of Sagit...
The amazing 30 meter crack on pitch seven of Sagit...
The friction crux early in pitch eight of Sagitarr...
The friction crux early in pitch eight of Sagitarr...
Pitch three of Sagittarius (6a)
Pitch three of Sagittarius (6a)

Comments on Sagittarius Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Aug 20, 2012

This climb is mega classic. I only wish it had a separate rap line perhaps off to the right as it can suffer from serious traffic jams. Very consistent route and every pitch is awesome. Jürg von Känel also deserves mention as the driving force on the FA and equipping the line.