|Main Wall, left side
Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.
Several hand-size pieces (at least double #2 Camalots and maybe double #3s to sew it), a few smaller cams, and a healthy selection of large cams. A #5, while not necessary, would ease the mind a bit.
|By Jesse James|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on.
|By Sherri Lewis|
From: Sequim, WA
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.
Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you can get a #4 at the roof. A #5 is bomber for the chimney and a few .75's and #1's are nice in the upper handcrack. A single #3 was sufficient but you could probably place another if you bring more.
Jun 26, 2013
This is also really fun if finished via the upper roof of Iron Horse by stepping left from the first Sagittarius anchor.
|By Aaron Nash|
Jul 25, 2013
Do not leave any gear in the large flake while traversing below, and subsequently climbing the squeeze chimney. The rope will bind in it and you'll have to downclimb to free it. You can walk a #4 along the way.
Before the move out of the chimney/pod, there is a flake inside the pod with an old ratty fixed cam. The right crack will take a red camalot well, and the left I found will take a yellow/red alien. This is the next good place to leave gear up from the slung chockstone. Anything else left in the chimney will bind the rope as it passes through.
Oh, and after experimentation, climb the squeeze chimney facing out from the wall. I found it much easier that way.
Aug 29, 2013
Don't listen to Aaron's gear beta. Place a 3.5 or a 4 slightly to the right of the middle of the traverse and run the rope behind the flake, it won't bind.
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 17, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Excellent, physical pitch with a bit of everything. Not the best choice for beginning leaders. (Nickname: 'Saggiscary-us.')
It is also possible to leave a #4 camalot midway through the main traverse and run the rope /outside/ of the chimney (attached by long sling). If done right this can result in very little rope drag--gear inside chimney then becomes the rope drag concern; use more long slings for any gear placed inside the chimney, and/or wait until you step back out of it to place more gear.
The roof finish to the right is worthwhile and the fixed piton seems to hold falls. Good rest and one or two small cam placement possibilities above the short but airy crux, then a licheny, balancey mantle to the chains.