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The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
D.O.A. T 
Floating on Gravel T 
Good Friday S 
Physical Graffiti S 
Promiscuity Crack T,S 
Safety Dance T 
Virgin, The S 
Wire Brush Hair Cut S 

Safety Dance 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cade Lloyd - 1983
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Cory on Sep 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Cory runs up Safety Dance.

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

One of the several bolted cracks at the Dark Side. Excellent sustained finger and hand jams eventually take you to the interesting boulder-problem finish.

Location 

Just left of the Wire Brush Haircut

Protection 

This climb is well protected and takes gear to 2" plus a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively you can clip the 4 bolts that are all next to excellent gear placements.


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By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
Mar 31, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
As of 3/29/16, there's a pigeon with a nest and chicks in a wide horizontal crack about 2/3 up this climb, and it didn't seem particularly pleased to see me when I climbed past. One might consider avoiding this climb for another month or so.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Ordinarily I'd be prepared to admit that its just a bad size, but if the learned masters of Mountain Project call this 10b, but think Trimmed Bush is 10a, they're high. This is much easier than Trimmed Bush, and the sections with hard sizes are brief, with good faceholds nearby.
I think this is fair 10a, and Trimmed Bush is fair 10c, for a proficient crack climber.
Also, cams from #1 to #3 friend (e.g. .5 - 2 C4) will take the edge off any runout you may feel. Or doubles in that with maybe some nuts or small gear will let you skip all the bolts.

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