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Mount San Antonio/ Mt. Baldy
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Baldy Ski Hut 
Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 
Creavature police 
Devil's Backbone 
Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M 
Northeast Face 
Phoenix Wings 
Safety Dance 
San Antonio Falls 
Ski Hut Boulder Left 
South Bowl 
Taco Sauce 
Upper South Ridge 
Unsorted Routes:

Safety Dance 

AI2 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, Grade II
Consensus: AI2 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: J.J on Feb 14, 2010
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James pulling up a short mixed section.

Description 

I originally put this in as lightning couloir, but when I did it, I took the variation known as safety dance. You start up Big Butch Wash after parking in the lot for the ski hut trail, and head up until you get to the bend(waterfall was present when I was there). You will see a couloir known as lightning couloir to your right. Partway up the route, take a left up a short mixed section, through a couple more mixed sections straight up from there, then pull up a steeper notch at the top that has routes with actual ice that supports you!(at least it did for me..). This brings you onto Thunder Ridge and you can head up to Thunder Mountain peak or find a route to Telegraph Peak etc...


Location 

Park in the same place as you do for Baldy's ski hut trail and head up Big Butch Wash. When you reach a waterfall that can be passed to continue on Big Butch Wash, turn right and head up the prominent couloir. Careful as this is avalanche area.


Protection 

We soloed this route with an Ice axe and extra tool each. You could probably get away with a standard axe if it's snowy enough, but then again, lots of snow makes for a lot of postholing and an exhausting time. No pro required but if with a beginner then pickets, small alpine rack might be useful. Helmets and crampons also required. Skis or Snowboard HIGHLY recommended in powdery conditions.



Photos of Safety Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Lightning couloir with avy debris
BETA PHOTO: Lightning couloir with avy debris
Start of the approach in Big Butch Wash.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the approach in Big Butch Wash.
We turned left from the main couloir here up a little bit of mixed climbing(recommended).
BETA PHOTO: We turned left from the main couloir here up a lit...
Head right when you see this(route not in picture)
BETA PHOTO: Head right when you see this(route not in picture)
From above the mixed section we took the notch in the middle of the photo(recommended if icy). There was lots of powder as with most of the climb when we did it but it was still fun.
BETA PHOTO: From above the mixed section we took the notch in ...
Finishing up the notch.
Finishing up the notch.
Looking down from the top of the notch we took (I believe this is summitpost.org's variation described).
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the notch we took (I ...
Some fun on Safety Dance two years ago. Photo by Johnny K.
Some fun on Safety Dance two years ago. Photo by J...
Comments on Safety Dance Add Comment
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By J.J
Feb 14, 2010

First off, I put this under Baldy's page because of the close proximity and I didn't want to make a whole new area. Second, if my descriptions confuse anyone feel free to revise, criticize, or pm me if you want details.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 10, 2012

Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks.