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Safe Harbor

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Safe Harbor North 
Safe Harbor South 

Safe Harbor Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.93463, -76.38524 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,992
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...

2016: Closure LIFTED of Cemetery Wall to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Safe Harbor, approached through the village of the same name, is a sport crag that was closed for most of the last 15 years. Though originally established as a runout (R and X) trad crag, it is now one of Pennsylvania's best sport climbing destinations. Most rock here is low angle with good friction, with a few steeper lines mixed in; like the classic steep arete Wonderama (5.12b) in Safe Harbor South. The walls of Safe Harbor all face west-southwest, giving it plenty of daylight - very inviting in cool weather. After dark, I've seen groups climbing by headlamp.

Conestoga township now owns the land that Safe Harbor South is on, and access is free and open as of November 2011. Driving out of the crag on a Saturday evening, the Conestoga Wagon Restaurant looked pretty hopping, but as a "family" restaurant I don't think they serve "adult" beverages. Driving ten miles north to Lancaster will give you many choices.

There is no camping allowed at the crag. The nearest campground is Pequea Creek right down the road. Unfortunately, they are currently only open from April to October. Tucquan Park a few miles to the south might be open in the cool season.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing Facebook group is the best please to network with other SH climbers.

Getting There 

The north and south areas have very different approaches. See those pages for driving and hiking directions.

Driving from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). Main Street ends in a T-intersection with River Road.

You'll turn left on River Road to climb the south, or right to climb the north.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

235 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',54],['2 Stars',139],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',12],['5.8',17],['5.9',48],['5.10',76],['5.11',47],['5.12',21],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Safe Harbor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Safe Harbor:
Le Eaglet   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Pro Bono   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Public Service   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 74'   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Slab Master   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Safe Harbor Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Mental As Anything   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Tenuous Odyssey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Locomotion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Electric Co.   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Super Slab   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Hydroman   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Sugar Frosted Razorflakes   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Safe Harbor North : 3.0 Euro Wall
Nose, The   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Safe Harbor North : 4.50 Cemetery Wall
2. Knife Edge Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Safe Harbor North : 3.3 Star Wall
Machismo   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   Safe Harbor South : d. Machismo Sector
Ruby Red Slippers   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Safe Harbor North : 4.50 Cemetery Wall
Blood Sugar Magic   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   Safe Harbor South : a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector
White Stripes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Wonderama   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Safe Harbor

Featured Route For Safe Harbor
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice picture of the corner.

Autumn Arch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  PA : South Central PA : ... : f. Autumn Arch Sector
This route is fantastic - varied between the upper and lower halves, long, interesting moves and great stemming! Nice view from the top too. From the Rock & Ice guide published in issue #51: "Mega-classic corner with great stemming. Beware - A 165-foot [50m] rope is required to lower off this, and adjacent routes!"...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Safe Harbor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice views of the Susquehanna river from atop the ...
Nice views of the Susquehanna river from atop the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Safe Harbor South houses several fine, fun moderat...
Safe Harbor South houses several fine, fun moderat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Safe Harbor routes often require varied techniques...
BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor routes often require varied techniques...
Rock Climbing Photo: The super classic Hydroman 11b (Safe Harbor South)...
The super classic Hydroman 11b (Safe Harbor South)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up into the corner of Autumn Arch
Heading up into the corner of Autumn Arch

Comments on Safe Harbor Add Comment
Show which comments
By minquatrails
From: Lancaster PA
Sep 6, 2012
Any info on when SH North will open?
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Sep 7, 2012
minquatrails - I think there has been some discussion of this over on the facebook page for safe harbor. If you ask there you usually get a quick reply from Eric Horst. I think the summary is the town is supposed to acquire the land sometime soon, but they don't have a usable bridge from south to north, so once they do that will need to be built, otherwise the only access is from a trailhead 4 miles north.
By indiegirl
Sep 12, 2012
where do you camp when climbing at safe harbor?
how does safe harbor compare to west point, ny?
thanks!
By PaulFish
May 6, 2013
Holy Slab Batman!!

Safe Harbor is an awesome sport climbing location - with easy access to camping and town, this area makes for a wonderful weekend trip with friends. There is so much to do! You better make this a two day trip!

Be prepared though to blow your feet trying to stand on tiny crips along the slab routes here. Bring a comfortable climbing shoe (if there is such a thing) and make sure to warm up.

Also! If you pick up Green Hill Rd (to get to crag parking) from the south, you're going to have a bad time. The road is trashed and your puny cars wouldn't be able to make it without some damage to the undercarriage. Map of what entrance I'm talking about: goo.gl/maps/XEhA7

Anyway, take some time to meet the locals climbing here; their passion for this crag is palpable. Everyone is so friendly and has a story to share.

Cheers,
-PaulFish
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
Apr 14, 2014
Caution: Although there is a parking lot at the north end of the Safe Harbor South crags (on the east side of Powerhouse Road just before it crosses the Conestoga River), climbers should *not* park there! The hike from that lot to the crags crosses private property and access is still a sensitive issue. Additionally, the trail is badly eroded and a bit treacherous, and if you miss the trail you'll end up on active train tracks.

Also: According to Eric Horst, the North crags *are* open. Here's a message from him with directions: SH North crags are open, but the main climbing area (Cemetry Wall) has no direct access yet. So the instructions to visit SH North….is to park at the north-end Trailhead of the Manor Twp rail trail, located on River Rd just north of Turkey Hill dairy. An almost 5 mile hike or bike ride is required to get to Cemetery Wall, although you will pass occasional scattered route development along the way. Direct access to Cemetery Wall (from Observation Road above the crag) currently crosses private property. Thus, we can’t encourage climbers to enter this way…although some surely do. I’ve met with Manor Twp numerous times and they are working on an easement across the private land that will allow climbers to use this more direct approach—this may come to fruition later this year.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 20, 2015
There are now several no parking signs along River Road right before the tunnel (I don't remember them from last October). So it seems that you have to drive through the tunnel to park, or park a hundred yards or more before the tunnel.
By RobPeschk
Jul 21, 2016
I am new to the area and would love to get on some climbs. Any rating 5.7 to 5.11. Is anyone willing to show me around?

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