Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Safe Harbor
Kintaro Climbing Shoe - Men's

$148.95 29% off

$104.27

at CampSaver

36    more...
Vision Harness

$49.95 20% off

$39.95

at WildernessX

553    more...
Patagonia Men's Traverse Jacket

$119.00 50% off

$59.50

at Patagonia

254    more...
Patagonia Men's Venn 3-in-1 Parka

$299.00 50% off

$149.50

at Patagonia

27    more...
MSR Heat Exchanger

$39.99 30% off

$27.99

at AlsSports

2    more...
Edelweiss Curve ARC Rope 9.8mm x 70m

$199.99 30% off

$139.99

at AlsSports

5    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Safe Harbor South 

Safe Harbor 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 39.9074, -76.3656 Map
Page Views: 33,921. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
Guidebooks (1)
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Areas north of dam are off limits MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...

Description 

Safe Harbor is a sport crag that was closed for most of the last 15 years. Though originally established as a runout (R and X) trad crag, it is now one of Pennsylvania's best sport climbing destinations. Most rock here is low angle with good friction, with a few steeper lines mixed in; like the classic steep arete Wonderama (5.12b) in Safe Harbor South. The walls of Safe Harbor all face west-southwest, giving it plenty of daylight - very inviting in cool weather. After dark, I've seen groups climbing by headlamp.

Safe Harbor North - that is, everything north of Safe Harbor Dam - is closed and off limits. Please respect this closure as arrangements are being made to officially open it in the near future. There is plenty to climb in the South until then.

Conestoga township now owns the land that Safe Harbor South is on, and access is free and open as of November 2011. Driving out of the crag on a Saturday evening, the Conestoga Wagon Restaurant looked pretty hopping, but as a "family" restaurant I don't think they serve "adult" beverages. Rock Hill Tavern looks like a good bet for recovery beer with dinner. Driving ten miles north to Lancaster will give you many choices.

There is no camping allowed at the crag. The nearest campground is Pequea Creek right down the road. Unfortunately, they are currently only open from April to October. Tucquan Park a few miles to the south might be open in the cool season.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing website has the latest information on climbing here. I recommend reading his overview of the crag before visiting. Eric also helps host a Safe Harbor Climbing Facebook group where you can network with other SH climbers.


Getting There 

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

Continue on River Road south for over a mile. Turn right on the winding and rural Green Hill Road. After around a mile, the pavement ends. Follow the road right and downhill, following a flower preserve sign. You'll reach the tunnel shortly. Park your carpool on the side of the road on either side of the tunnel, making sure not to block traffic. There's enough room for many vehicles to park here.

On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel.

If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

Hike the rail trail north to the first sector of Safe Harbor South (around 1/2 mile).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Safe Harbor:
Public Service   5.8+     Sport, 80 feet   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Slab Master   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Mental As Anything   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Safe Harbor Direct   5.9+     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Old School High Ball   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Demon In My Semen   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Safe Harbor South : i. Train in Vain Sector
Tenuous Odyssey   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Locomotion   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Electric Co.   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Witness   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Safe Harbor South : d. Machismo Sector
Heart's Horizon   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Numero Uno   5.10c     Sport, 50 feet   Safe Harbor South : h. Numero Uno Sector
Crossroads   5.10d     Sport, 60 feet   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Super Slab   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet, Grade V   Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Urban Daydreams   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Hydroman   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Machismo   5.11c/d     Sport, 65 feet   Safe Harbor South : d. Machismo Sector
White Stripes   5.12a     Sport, 65 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Wonderama   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Browse More Classics in Safe Harbor

Featured Route For Safe Harbor
Slab Master!

Slab Master 5.9  PA : Safe Harbor : ... : e. Super Slab Sector
Exciting slab with a couple of face holds. Start the climb about 8' to the right of Super Slab and go straight up the face. There are six bolts plus the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA


Photos of Safe Harbor Slideshow Add Photo
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south.

BETA PHOTO: Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...

Heading up into the corner of Autumn Arch

Heading up into the corner of Autumn Arch


Comments on Safe Harbor Add Comment
Show which comments
By minquatrails
Sep 6, 2012

Any info on when SH North will open?

By Larry S
Sep 7, 2012

minquatrails - I think there has been some discussion of this over on the facebook page for safe harbor. If you ask there you usually get a quick reply from Eric Horst. I think the summary is the town is supposed to acquire the land sometime soon, but they don't have a usable bridge from south to north, so once they do that will need to be built, otherwise the only access is from a trailhead 4 miles north.

By indiegirl
Sep 12, 2012

where do you camp when climbing at safe harbor?
how does safe harbor compare to west point, ny?
thanks!

By PaulFish
May 6, 2013

Holy Slab Batman!!

Safe Harbor is an awesome sport climbing location - with easy access to camping and town, this area makes for a wonderful weekend trip with friends. There is so much to do! You better make this a two day trip!

Be prepared though to blow your feet trying to stand on tiny crips along the slab routes here. Bring a comfortable climbing shoe (if there is such a thing) and make sure to warm up.

Also! If you pick up Green Hill Rd (to get to crag parking) from the south, you're going to have a bad time. The road is trashed and your puny cars wouldn't be able to make it without some damage to the undercarriage. Map of what entrance I'm talking about: goo.gl/maps/XEhA7

Anyway, take some time to meet the locals climbing here; their passion for this crag is palpable. Everyone is so friendly and has a story to share.

Cheers,
-PaulFish