Don't know if this was ever climbed in the past but all evidence indicates that it was not... who knows for sure though? It was cleaned up and climbed recently. It is a fun moderate pitch that is worth climbing and is a great way to extend the crux pitch of "Safari" to the top of the buttress (about 175' long).
Climb the first 2 pitches of either "Safari Jive" or "Cornflake Crack" to the large ledge. If climbing Safari Jive, it is a natural continuation of pitch 2. Just don't stop and belay at the usual anchor, continue to top.
Instead of climbing the 3rd pitch of Cornflake, climb the arete and face just to the left. Start on the flake above the Safari Jive rap anchor and sling the tree for pro. Step left to lieback the arete, then continue up the cool arete and face. Keep your eyes peeled for gear in the 'brows that will require some longs slings to prevent rope drag. Belay at the large dead hemlock tree/2 bolt rap station.
The arete and face above the Safari Jive P-2 rap anchor.
Standard LG rack up to #2 camelot. For pro at the start, sling the tree.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Nate showed me this pitch today, and it is an excellent extension to an already classic climb. Nate linked the first two pitches of Safari Jive so we did this as a stand alone pitch, but I think if you split up the first two pitches, this extension would be an excellent finish to the crux second pitch. It continues straight up after the stellar hand crack finish of Safari Jive, so just clip an anchor bolt and keep on climbing!