Nice cayon with limestne walls that angle up either side. Some nice swimming holes at times. Most of the walls face up the canyon and thus re Northwest facing on th right and Northeast facing on the left as you head up the canyon. Areas with tuffa exis but are not the majority, most of the limbing is on clean grey faces with pockets and edges or squarely fractured rock leaving slopers and sidepulls.
Many of the areas are close to the road and aproaches from the road vary from belay in the road to 20 minutes or so. That being said, the road through the cayon is closed for much of the day except for local traffic. The gate goes down about 9am and reopens about 5 pm, s if you don´t get there early you will have to walk the road which adda about 20-30 minutes depending onthe area you are headed to. The road is pretty flat though so it is not too arduous.
There are a couple hundred or more routes in the canyon, from short single pitch sport, which is most of it to multi-pitch lines. Grades range from pretty easy, French 5´s to 5.14.
There is a hostle in Saderrnas and the city of Girona is about 40 minute away and quite beautiful.
Head to the town of Girona, close to the French boarder. Take C-66 through Benyoles to Besalu. Then hook up with A-26 towards Olot. Take the exit for montygut and head through the town which is up the hill a ways. Just outside of town take the left marked fo Saderrnas and drive the tight and windy 5 kms to the town and the hostle, fork to the left and if the gate is down there is a big parking lot up on the right side of the road. If the road is open, drive to the correctly numbers parking area, there are 3.
GPS is for the parking befor the canyon.
Climbing Season For the Catalonia area.
Weather station 26.4 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Sadernes
El Pas del Foraster 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Europe
: ... : La Cupula
Fun climbing on short tuffa pinches and such to a blocky top section. The route keeps going up onto less than vertical rock but the last bolt has a FIXE ring on it and I would recommend lowering from that.A cool move off the ground on vertical rock gets you started. Then steep climbing on mostly good pinches and underclings take one up to just below the lip. The holds turn blocky and slopy and the crux hits turning the lip onto vertical ground....[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Michael G
Sep 10, 2009
Lee, wouldn't this area fall under the Pyrenees? It might be less confusing to new comers if we organized the country geographically. Thanks.
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 23, 2009
Michael, this is organized geographically. In the same way that the US is organized, Catalonia is the state or province that Saderrnas is in, while the Pyrenees is like saying something is in the Mid-west, which is also geographical in a different way.