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Saddam's Mom 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Karen Peil, 12/90
Season: sprng, winter and fall
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 27, 2007
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Description 

The best route on the cliff. The crux involves a long move past the third bolt. You can step around left on the ledge to get a rest or climb straight up (this probably makes the route 12a). From the ledge a scary but not as hard as it looks move back around right will get you back into 5.10 climbing to finish the route.


Location 

climbs the arete to the right of When the Cat's Away.


Protection 

6 bolts



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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Interesting route- a hard (and reachy) crimp crux down low (getting to the 3rd bolt) and then a deceptive bouldery crux up higher with the bolt at your feet makes this thing feel pretty hard for the grade.

Cool holds and decent rock quality make me want to get new bolts on this thing so I'd feel safe taking the whip at the cruxes!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 24, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.