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Sac's Fifth Avenue 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c X

   
Type: TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,472
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Fifth Avenue

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Description 

Like the real Sacs Fifth Avenue, this one doesn't come cheap. I've only seen one person actually complete this one; he confirmed the grade in the guidebook at 5.11a/b. There are, apparently, two different ways to do it; neither one is easier. It's a nice gauge in that each move is progressively harder; you can judge your progress by how high you get.


Location 

Climb the blank, arching face to the right of Arete I. Stay off both aretes - climb the face only. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.


Protection 

There is absolutely no protection whatsoever on this route. Top rope only. Bolted TR anchor.



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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c X

11a/b seems sandbagged if you stay off the aretes, unless a hold broke. I used the right arete for one move and it still felt like hard .11

By Dave Pfurr
Mar 26, 2012

Was recently on this--and did find a way up it without using either arete--but it was not straight up the middle as the topo-shot suggests. I did note a brown scar about 3/4-height that made me wonder if a hold broke off there. I would confirm the grade as given. It is at least a hard 5.10.