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j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete I TR 
Arete II TR 
Can He Share? TR 
Cool Hand Luke T,TR 
Easy Rider T,TR 
Flying Buttman TR 
Hustler (5.6+), The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Sac's Fifth Avenue TR 
Slap Shot TR 
Up A Tree T,TR 

Sac's Fifth Avenue 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Fifth Avenue


Like the real Sacs Fifth Avenue, this one doesn't come cheap. I've only seen one person actually complete this one; he confirmed the grade in the guidebook at 5.11a/b. There are, apparently, two different ways to do it; neither one is easier. It's a nice gauge in that each move is progressively harder; you can judge your progress by how high you get.


Climb the blank, arching face to the right of Arete I. Stay off both aretes - climb the face only. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.


There is absolutely no protection whatsoever on this route. Top rope only. Bolted TR anchor.

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By AWinters
From: NH
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X

11a/b seems sandbagged if you stay off the aretes, unless a hold broke. I managed to onsight but used the right arete for one move, still felt like hard .11
By Dave Pfurr
Mar 26, 2012

Was recently on this--and did find a way up it without using either arete--but it was not straight up the middle as the topo-shot suggests. I did note a brown scar about 3/4-height that made me wonder if a hold broke off there. I would confirm the grade as given. It is at least a hard 5.10.
By Elan Trybuch
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X

Looks like a hold broke off, upping the grade on this to an 11 c/d some friend who were trying said possibly 12a. Stout route, and once you get the move, it's a blast to climb!
By Daniel Affsprung
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 13, 2015

I was on this in September, and if it's 11- then Psyche Out is 10-. I think a hold must have broken in the upper half, I couldn't even visualize a sequence to finish the thing out without the aretes.

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