|Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Like the real Sacs Fifth Avenue, this one doesn't come cheap. I've only seen one person actually complete this one; he confirmed the grade in the guidebook at 5.11a/b. There are, apparently, two different ways to do it; neither one is easier. It's a nice gauge in that each move is progressively harder; you can judge your progress by how high you get.
Climb the blank, arching face to the right of Arete I. Stay off both aretes - climb the face only. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.
There is absolutely no protection whatsoever on this route. Top rope only. Bolted TR anchor.
|By Adam Winters|
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
11a/b seems sandbagged if you stay off the aretes, unless a hold broke. I managed to onsight but used the right arete for one move, still felt like hard .11
|By Dave Pfurr|
Mar 26, 2012
Was recently on this--and did find a way up it without using either arete--but it was not straight up the middle as the topo-shot suggests. I did note a brown scar about 3/4-height that made me wonder if a hold broke off there. I would confirm the grade as given. It is at least a hard 5.10.
|By Elan Trybuch|
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Looks like a hold broke off, upping the grade on this to an 11 c/d some friend who were trying said possibly 12a. Stout route, and once you get the move, it's a blast to climb!