Sac's Fifth Avenue 5.11a/b X
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Taino on Jan 19, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Fifth Avenue
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Description Like the real Sacs Fifth Avenue, this one doesn't come cheap. I've only seen one person actually complete this one; he confirmed the grade in the guidebook at 5.11a/b. There are, apparently, two different ways to do it; neither one is easier. It's a nice gauge in that each move is progressively harder; you can judge your progress by how high you get.
Location Climb the blank, arching face to the right of Arete I. Stay off both aretes - climb the face only. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.
Protection There is absolutely no protection whatsoever on this route. Top rope only. Bolted TR anchor.
| Comments on Sac's Fifth Avenue |
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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.11 X
| 11a/b seems sandbagged if you stay off the aretes, unless a hold broke. I used the right arete for one move and it still felt like hard .11 |
By Dave Pfurr
Mar 26, 2012
| Was recently on this--and did find a way up it without using either arete--but it was not straight up the middle as the topo-shot suggests. I did note a brown scar about 3/4-height that made me wonder if a hold broke off there. I would confirm the grade as given. It is at least a hard 5.10. |
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