|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Season:||Shade, Winter is best|
|Submitted By:||Red on Jan 29, 2013|
|Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sacrificial Pig||Add Comment|
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By Pat Mac
Jan 30, 2013
|I was on this thing quite a few years ago. Felt really hard!|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 4, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
This route is actually pretty good, even though it looks a bit dirty and chossy. With some more ascents and cleaning this would probably be a solid 2-3 stars. I didn't find any super hard crux, more of a pumpy power endurance type of line. The moves getting past the 4th bolt are pretty challenging though. While hanging the draws the bolting felt pretty sparse, with some potentially awkward falls, however on redpoint it didn't feel too bad. Felt a little harder than other 12c's on Tufa City (La Linea Negra, Tufa Size Me, Flying Cocksman) so I think it's lower 12d.
Climb up to the ledge using a cool undercling seam. Be aware that there are no bolts above the second until the ledge, putting you in solid ground fall range on easy (low 5th class) but slightly spooky terrain with lots of stacked hollow blocks. After clipping the low third bolt (sling recommended), pass the 4th bolt, and pull hard moves with powerful crimping and underclinging to the 5th. Enjoy continuous sidepulling and undercling up progressively easier terrain to the anchors.