|The Bridger Jacks
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Sacred Space climbs one of the most dramatic walls in Indian Creek: the steep 200 foot south face of the King of Pain. One can get a good glimpse of this route from the base of the Bridger Jacks, and an up close and personal view from Hoop Dancer on Hummingbird Spire. If any more inspiration is needed, read about the FA in Jeff Achey's essay in the David Bloom guidebook. Most of what is said about this climb is true.
Approach via the original first pitch -- a long, chossy corner that leads up to the notch between Hummingbird Spire and the King of Pain (5.9 R). An alternative, much better option is to climb Egg Drop Soup (5.12-), the beautiful lieback corner just right. Egg Drop Soup's second pitch eventually joins with the original first pitch and leads to the notch. When we did the climb we used our tag line to haul up all the big gear we'd need for Sacred Space, and then lower down all the extra small gear we had used on Egg Drop Soup. This worked well. Once sitting on the narrow perch below the base of the Sacred Space crack, arrange a belay. Negotiating all the loose rock on the first couple pitches, and then gazing up at the splitter system full of wandering cracks and massive chockstones, gives the distinctly disquieting impression that the King of Pain tower is indeed falling apart. That feeling is only amplifed as one begins climbing the route, but hopefully it won't all come down until after the ascent is complete.
P1: Begin in an obvious, 30' long #5 Camalot (C4) crack. For most this should be perfect handstacks and knee locks; near the top things get wider and more creative. Continue up very steep rock and twin hand cracks, eventually reaching a cave inhabited by two massive chockstones. One of these (the refridgerator-sized one) is loose and requires mandatory yarding on. The other one (the car-sized one) seems solid. Jam around this second block and up a cruxy dwindling crack to an awkward move into a second, more cramped cave. After a good rest, initiate an incredible rising hand traverse to the right via a #6 Camalot crack before cutting the feet loose (!) and swinging over to a small ledge on the overhanging wall. The exposure here is massive! Arrange some more so-so gear and continue with the traverse to the base of the huge gash-like squeeze chimney of the second pitch. Standing up to reach the belay anchors requires a bit of grovelling and pulling on toaster-sized loose rocks in the chimney which feels altogether desperate on the lead. The anchor consists of a modern bolt and a drilled pin (both eyelets of which are cracked). The hanging belay here is uncomfortable (for a variety of reasons) and a replacement for the pin might make things much safer. This is a long pitch of spectacular, unforgettable, and full-on climbing.
P2: Launch up the squeeze chimney. At about the 20' mark there is a horizontal in exfoliating rock that can take a bad purple TCU, and at about the 30' mark there is a decent #6 Camalot placement WAY back in the chimney (only available to those that are thin). Otherwise it is 100+ feet of unprotected 5.9 squeeze, barring large tube chocks. Tunnel into the depths of the tower and emerge up top, belaying on a pile of loose caprock just below the summit. My partner, who had just done the first all-female free ascent of the Moonlight Buttress, said this pitch required her to work harder than any other pitch in her life. I thought 5.9 was fair, but the seriousness of this pitch should not be understated: With the anchor in it's current state, a fall in the first 50' could result in the death of the entire party.
Topping out involves an easy lead to the summit with the protection of a lone star drive. Getting down is another matter. Downclimb and stem to or, more boldly, jump to the north tower across a sickeningly exposed gap. Lead up to the north summit and then make a double rope rap to join with the Wild Flower rappels. Two ropes required. There might be another anchor near the top of the squeeze chimney which would allow rapping back to the notch.
Double set of cams from yellow TCU to #6 Camalots. A couple extra hand-sized pieces. A small cam for the chimney. This rack implies much walking and back-cleaning of the larger gear.
Edit: I've been told that the crappy belay before the final chimney pitch has been upgraded with a second bolt.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Mar 29, 2010
This route is AWESOME!
It should get way more traffic then it does.
The pitch off the notch is physical, but only has 30' of splitter off-width, and then is super varied and fun. The second pitch is chimney if you are a 12 year old boy, other wise it is off-width.
Bring a #4 big-bro or two.
I'll say it again.
Bring a #4 big bro.
It's not fun looking at an anchor fall from 30-40' up.
Climb the route, its not as hard as everyone says.
Oh yeah. Man up and jump the gap.
|By Sam Feuerborn|
From: Durango, CO
Nov 15, 2013
Ben is right on this route is super rad and the jump will gain you tons of street cred!
Don't even bother with Bloom's book beta.