This route starts about 20ft to the right of the classic north face route. Pitch one 5.11c - excellent climbing up a finger crack with interesting features for the feet, when crack ends work right via fun technical face climbing and up into another crack(crux). Continue up to a slabby ramp and through some loose broken rock to narrow ledge with a bolted belay shared with the north face route.
Pitch two 10a - This pitch is shared with the north face route. Follow the crack up the calcite covered face to the roof(crux), turn the roof via a left leaning crack and proceed up and left to another bolted belay on a excellent ledge.
Pitch three 10b - Move right and up to bolt, then do some tricky face moves left into a right facing corner. Follow corner to another well bolted belay at a good stance.
Pitch four 12b - Time for some sport climbing. Move up and right, power/finesse your way past a small bulge into some technical calcite pulling. Take a good rest at the horizontal and get ready for crux #2. Move up past more technical calcite sidepulls and pinches to another good horizontal. Traverse right under the roof, then up and back left to the anchors.
Note pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with a full 60 meter rope if your willing to run it out in the easier sections. Enjoy TF.
2-3 each purple tcu to #2 camalot. 1 #3 camalot. Small selection of stoppers. Quick-draws, runners...
Jake leaving the N. Face for the 3rd pitch of Sacr...
|By Max Schon|
Oct 4, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Awesome route! First pitch is very sustained with many 5.11 moves. Third pitch is fun and the fourth pitch, well, it's hard. No need for any gear on the last pitch, just five draws.
|By Clay Rardon|
From: Morgantown, WV
Mar 30, 2005
Super sick route!! Deserves way more attention than half the other routes on the tower... The rock is unreal on the last pitch!! It is almost like pinching hardened candle wax! It feels hard for the origanl rating of 12-!! Get up on this stellar line.. You can link the middle two pitches with a 70m also...
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
incredible exposure at one of the coolest places on earth. definately hard for 12-. I was w/Clay on this one and we had a blast.
This is the only way I've gotten up castelton. Twice!
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 17, 2006
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
Another vote for "awesome route" here. The last pitch was basically two v5 boulder problems separated by a good rest; the first a little harder with a series of slaps up a little arete, and the second easier but more painful, with some tiny calcite crimps and pinches.
|By Ken Duncan|
Apr 8, 2007
The best route in Castle Valley. Excellent first pitch - 11d and incredible last pitch. Definately a route to shoot for.
Nov 19, 2007
If you loved this route, definitely put Excommunication on your list. It is just as amazing, probably even better!! Both are awesome tower climbs..
|By L Stern|
From: Golden, CO
6 days ago
Agree with all the above comments... stellar, especially P1. On P1, the blue Metolius TCU size was money. I had 3 and would have placed 4 had I had it. I'd add a very optional purple C3 for P3.