Sacred Fire 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Loran Smith & Joshua Corbett Sept. 7, 2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | EDGE on Sep 7, 2012 |
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Joshua Corbett on "Sacred Fire."
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Description Start below the obvious right facing flake on dirty slabs. Climb the flake to it's top, then step slightly right and up to "Merrymeeting Ledge", the 5' deep ledge. Sling the largest tree up high, then boulder up the 15' friction slab/face to better holds. Place a couple of pieces of gear in a small crack, then negotiate the surprisingly tricky top out moves with a beached whale manoever, or if you're brave on the sharp end, press it out.
Location At the far left of the cliff is a dirty slab leading to a series of headwalls and overlaps. Sacred Fire begins on dirty slabs leading to the obvious large, right facing flake. Rap off of double pine trees (sling and quick links needed) with one 60M rope to reach the base.
Protection Small stoppers and cams to 2".
Joshua Corbett starts the initial corner flake.
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Joshua on the bulging slab over the flake.
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Following the bulging slab moves on "Sacred Fire."
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By EDGE
Sep 7, 2012
| Named for the brilliant red sky over the Belnap Range and Lake Winnipesaukee. The sun had just gone down behind the range, and the FA was lead and seconded via headlamp. |
By chinos
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| the route is pretty safe, but the final crux moves over the bulge to the tree ledge are committing. the gear is very small and the rock is suspect in my eyes. if that blows your going for a nasty ride... a fun route tho. |
By EDGE
Sep 11, 2012
| Jon, it was definitely a plus to lead it in the dark with a headlamp so I couldn't focus on that nasty fall potential... |
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