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Sacred Fire 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Loran Smith & Joshua Corbett Sept. 7, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: EDGE on Sep 7, 2012

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Joshua on the bulging slab over the flake.

Description 

Start below the obvious right facing flake on dirty slabs. Climb the flake to it's top, then step slightly right and up to "Merrymeeting Ledge", the 5' deep ledge. Sling the largest tree up high, then boulder up the 15' friction slab/face to better holds. Place a couple of pieces of gear in a small crack, then negotiate the surprisingly tricky top out moves with a beached whale manoever, or if you're brave on the sharp end, press it out.

Location 

At the far left of the cliff is a dirty slab leading to a series of headwalls and overlaps. Sacred Fire begins on dirty slabs leading to the obvious large, right facing flake. Rap off of double pine trees (sling and quick links needed) with one 60M rope to reach the base.

Protection 

Small stoppers and cams to 2".


Photos of Sacred Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Joshua Corbett on "Sacred Fire."
Joshua Corbett on "Sacred Fire."
Joshua Corbett starts the initial corner flake.
Joshua Corbett starts the initial corner flake.
Following the bulging slab moves on "Sacred Fire."
Following the bulging slab moves on "Sacred F...

Comments on Sacred Fire Add Comment
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By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2012

Named for the brilliant red sky over the Belnap Range and Lake Winnipesaukee. The sun had just gone down behind the range, and the FA was lead and seconded via headlamp.
By chinos
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

the route is pretty safe, but the final crux moves over the bulge to the tree ledge are committing. the gear is very small and the rock is suspect in my eyes. if that blows your going for a nasty ride... a fun route tho.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2012

Jon, it was definitely a plus to lead it in the dark with a headlamp so I couldn't focus on that nasty fall potential...