Sacred Cow  5.12c

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Type:  Trad, 150 feet Consensus:  5.12b/c [details] FA:  Steve Hong, I assume Season:  shady in the morning, sun Submitted By:  camhead on Nov 27, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sam about to head into the ringlocks.

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Dugout Ranch Cattle Drive happening now! Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> It's Fall and the temps at the Creek are crisp and perfect. Its also time to bring the herd in from the high country of the Abajo's. The FOIC got a call from the Dugout Ranch last night reminding us that this is the week when the cattle are driven down the Cottonwood drainage to the Ranch HQ pastures. As such there are a few requests that we, and the Ranch, have so that all parties can get along without any mishaps. First, if you see the herd coming and your in your car, stop and let them pass around you. Second, the cattle guards and associated gates are bottlenecks for the cattle. The Ranch has requested that climbers park at least 300 feet from the gates. This will help them to get through the tight space, and it might help it so that no cows try and climb over your vehicle (I once saw this in my home town... it was ugly). And third, make sure any dogs are on leashes when down near the road. A dog chasing a cow can end very badly for all parties involved. Folks, the Dugout Ranch is a slice of the old west and it helps to give the Indian Creek area its character. It is very kind of them to let us know these next few weeks, especially the weekend of the 21-23 of October, is when the cattle are being moved. Historically there have been a few times when cows, cowboys, and climbers have butted heads. That does not need to be the case. We all live together in this beautiful place... lets help them out and let the cattle drive happen as smooth as possible. Thanks, the FOIC Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.

(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!

Location 

maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.

Protection 

FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.