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This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.
(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!
maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.
FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 21, 2007
Having a couple Omega Linkcams solves the problem of finding the right cam size to fit in the headwall fingerstacking splitter. If you have them, save them for the top.
From: electric lady land
Jan 19, 2008
black metolious cams fit perfect in
the headwall splitter.
From: Bayfield, CO
Nov 7, 2008
That black metolius size is getting into thin hands for some. I bet this would feel wicked easy if you had small hands.
|By Becca Roseberry|
Apr 12, 2010
This climb is all hand jamming and the upper headwall is thin-hands, #2 friends. 12a tops for the girls, maybe 12b if you're hands are bigger. Twin Cam just to the right is STOUT compared to Sacred Cow.
|By Lizzy Trower|
From: Stanford, CA
Mar 27, 2011
I was not psyched with the fit of .75 Camalots, I would have been much happier with more black metolius or #2 Friends for the upper headwall.