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Sacherer Cracker 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Frank Sacherer and Mike Sherrick, 1964
Page Views: 9,539
Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2007
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Sacherer Cracker. Hard.
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the most classic pitches at its grade in all of Yosemite, Sacherer Cracker is a full value 120+ feet of stellar jamming and clean movement. Begin with a short wide section that leads to a small ledge (two bolts provide an optional belay here); step left to the splitter finger crack that widens gradually as you work your way toward the final, notorious wide section that guards the chains. Some find this section to be the route's crux, and many have used the chockstone at its beginning to bail, swearing to come back after they get more practice on the wide...


Location 

Continue up the scree trails along the SW base until you see this striking line - really can't miss it. If you reach the obvious left-facing dihedral of La Escuela, you've gone too far.


Protection 

Doubles to 3". Most forego anything big for the top, as the chockstone and cam in the horizontal are bomber and the crack quickly gets wider than most cams can cover.

Two rope rappel to ground. A 60m will not make it.



Photos of Sacherer Cracker Slideshow Add Photo
Then it gets wide.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Then it gets wide.

Photo: Corey Gargano
Scott having fun with the OW at the top
Scott having fun with the OW at the top
Dominic working through the fingers and tight hands on Sacherer Cracker.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Dominic working through the fingers and tight hand...
looking up sacherer and beyond to the upper west face... its so hard to tell looking up that sacherer cracker is so long... it looks almost innocent
looking up sacherer and beyond to the upper west f...
ass kicker end to an awesome route
ass kicker end to an awesome route
jamming my way up this sweet crack...
jamming my way up this sweet crack...
Watched this guy cruise Sacherer Cracker from the La Cosita belay.
Watched this guy cruise Sacherer Cracker from the ...
Comments on Sacherer Cracker Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2013
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

This is a notorious "Sacherer 5.9" that is even harder than usual. Very sustained.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 5, 2007

The crux for me is the first +/- 50ft. off of the small ledge, as the crack goes from fingers to off-fingers to tight hands. When that first slammer hand jam finally goes in, I'm usually breathing hard and bleeding from at least one of my mitts, and always exhilarated.

Gets more and more classic with each repetition.

Absolutely no comparison in terms of burliness and difficulty between this and Moby Dick down the way.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Sep 21, 2007

How is this route compared to the hallow flake pitch on the Salathe in terms of difficulty? I suck at offwidths and im planning on climbing the Salathe wall next year.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 21, 2007

Really Sacherer Cracker doesn't really compare to the hollow flake. The HF is much easier but then there is that protection problem.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jan 7, 2008

You can rap the route with one 60m, unlike what the description says.

There is a bolted belay/rap station on the ledge above the 5.7 section, at the start of the hard climbing (the first 50ft section which the fellow above refers to as the crux).

We used one 60m rope to rappel to this station from the chains at the top, which does barely make it. A second rappel from here will get you to the ground.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 14, 2008

So does an old school #5 Camalot go in at the top? I have a green one.

By Rusty Reno
Aug 10, 2009

As an old Yosemite climber, I can testify: this route is the ultimate sandbag. Don't worry about the upper wide section. It's the thin hands that works you.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One of the best single pitches of crack climbing I have ever done. I thought it was all hard - the fingers, hands and OW. Awesome awesome route.

By Bonesaw
From: CA
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I agree that this is the ultimate sandbag... great route. I felt the two crux sections were the off-fingers/thin hands and the OW at the top. Slinging the chockstone to protect the OW didn't seem feasible since there were many other small rocks and dirt surrounding it, making it very difficult to get a sling around it. I placed an old BD #3.5 just below the chockstone and ran it out to the chains.

Highly recommend continuing up The Slack for 2 or 3 more pitches (you can link the 5.4 chimney pitch and the 5.8 double cracks ptich with a 60m)... very adventurous and super cool climbing! You don't need anything bigger than a #3 for that. Need two ropes to rap off top of The Slack.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 12, 2013

To the question above re. the Hollow Flake, my .02:

-I thought the HF had harder pure climbing.
-The HF is rated 5.9, the top of SC is rated 5.8.
-The HF is 70 ft (more?), SC wide less than 2 body lengths.
-The HF is a wicked, frightening head game, the SC wide is not. Contrast pro at your feet (SC) w/ a long arc of rope hanging back to a pendulum point that feels like 20,000 leagues beneath and to the side of you...
-You'll be just fine if you fall out of the SC wide; you won't be if you fall out of the HF.

By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 18, 2013

There is no chock stone in the OW up top anymore. Bring a 5 and/or 6 for the top or be comfortable running it 15ish feet in that OW.

By Richard Dana
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Yeah, I was definitely hoping for that chock stone... Bring a 6 unless you want to potentially whip big. The OW felt very hard for the grade to me.