|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Alan Nelson, December 1987|
|Submitted By:||Roger Linfield on Sep 12, 2006|
|Comments on Sabretooth||Add Comment|
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From: Palm Desert, CA
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is unusual because I believe MP does a great job with pics; however, I don't feel that the beta photo is accurate as the route is actually to the left more. Vogel's guide actually gives you a better idea of where to head on this route.
Here's my beta: The route offers a nice variety in a relatively short pitch. There's some fun moves throughout - a lie back that head towards a short chimney. The chimney is runout, but never fear... good feet up to great hands lead to the true prize of this climb - the top section. Gear fits in specific, but very secure locations. Tops out to a lovely view.
Be mindful on the first section of the walk down - especially for folks unaccustomed to infamous Josh walk downs. Some may find this fine and take it with ease. Know that there are some options to set a quick belay to eliminate what would be an ugly fall.
Overall, a super fun route that I don't think sees much traffic.
Apr 23, 2012
|It could be Blitzo's photo is correct. We climbed the route he's outlined this morning. We were using Vogel's 1992 guide and weren't planning to do the Sabertooth route he shows in it. Now at home and looking at Vogel's 1989 Supplement to his first guide I see that it shows Blitzo's line, so who knows?? We choose this line because it looked cool and wasn't in the guide we had with us. We started by climbing the right margin of a prominent "tooth" behind a pine tree (the "Sabertooth"? This feature and route name makes me think Blitzo's right here.) From its top is face climbing protected by gear in horizontals with an unprotected top out face above a ledge. I set up a belay here so I could spot my partner on the exit face. I'd call it 5.7/8, two stars.|
By C Miller
Apr 24, 2012
This photo does show the proper location of Sabretooth, which does not climb the obvious large corner system. Pay no attention to the 1992 guidebook photo as it's wrong.
The 1989 Guidebook Supplement actually shows the proper location of this route, which matches with Blitzo's photo and the original route description from Alan Nelson.