A shady wall until later morning to early afternoon. This primarily West-Facing Wall Lies just South of Way Rambo and Bioturbation Wall, and well North of Pistol Whipped. The wall can be identified by 3 "columns" up above on the summit cap, over the right end of the wall. Another notable feature is a left-leaning ramp at the far right side of the climbable area of this wall. The ramp goes from the base to within a few meters of the top of the wall and is climbable.
Good routes at this cliff include, 'Sabbatical (10+),' 'Bon Voyage (11+),' and others. Only about 1/2 of the routes we saw at this cliff were in the Bloom book (Vol 1) and there is plenty of opportunity for new routes here.
Of the existing routes, there are some which are tall (70M rope required, 2 ropes required, or outright multi-pitch) and there are routes some very short routes of decent quality for IC beginners, though none are terribly easy.
Some of the anchors on this cliff have been under-attended and the webbing has been poor. I replaced several of them, but please consider taking up camo-ed chain or webbing and rapid links to contribute to the maintenance of this area if you visit.
Turn off of the main highway through the Indian Creek Area onto Beef Basin Road and go 4.85 miles to the sharp left turn on Rd 1041 through 'The Cottonwoods' camping area, continuing across the sometimes high creek and past the camping to approach the East side of this sub-canyon, as for Way Rambo wall or Pistol Whipped. The road bends to the right and continues for some fraction f a mile to come to the base of a brown wall with a hog-back approach on it's right side. A large stacked Cairn at the road by a barely perceptible 'pull-off' is the start of the trail, which is reasonable defined, but loose in some areas. Approach for about 15-25 minutes depending on your fitness and number of cams in your pack. You will arrive at the wall near the base of a few short, un-named 10's and just right of the massive dihedral of the namesake route 'Sabbatical.
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Sabbatical Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sabbatical Wall:
Bon Voyage 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Featured Route For Sabbatical Wall
Immaculate Conception 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Sabbatical Wall
Wow! One of the best finger cracks in Indian Creek!Pitch 1: Short pitch, head up the face to a ledge with a single bolt belay.Pitch 2: Splitter Finger Crack (this is what you came for!), Starts out with .3 camalots to sustained .4 and .5 camalots, save a .3 camalot for the top.Clip the bolted anchors and check to see how much skin is left on your fingers. You can lower all the way to the ground with a 70m rope....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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|By Avery N|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 1, 2010
Finding the 'carined' trail isn't straight forward if you haven't been here before. If I recall correctly, the first place I saw the trail begin to be marked was where the t rail faintly (yet first notably) begins a few feet southeast of the largest, most predominant erratic.
Apr 5, 2011
does anybody have info on the route 'pregnant woman grazing'? the crack that we found that seemed most likely to be the route didn't really match the description in the book. it was a really podded/flared splitter sort of crack with hands to big hands. just left of a large left facing corner, maybe 50 feet left of 'decreation'. anchors were about 100' up, and were pretty easy to see with the dark webbing on light rock.
nice wall with a lot of variety in grade, length, size, adventure factor.
|By Patrick Kingsbury|
Apr 10, 2011
I think you hit it right on the head Slim! Did you try Decreation by chance? Pretty good wall with lots of great routes!
Apr 11, 2011
Decreation? no way jose! i know better than that! actually i don't really know better than that, but i had this weird feeling that i SHOULD know better than that... yet for some reason i kind of want to get on it..... looks awesome, nice work! talk about a line that you can see from the road, looks like it could go to the top with some mega wideness.
looks like your crew has put a handful of intimidating routes up there. that morning sickness route looks pretty insane. also that miscarriage route looks pretty rowdy for 5.11.