Sabbatical 36  5.10

920 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 155 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Season:  Faces West/Southwest Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Sabbatical 36 in its entirety!

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A good climb with a few harder moves between rests and sustained sections. The particular area of difficulty will be dependent upon height, hand-size, skill, etc... In essence, YMMV.
But what will be universal is enjoyment of the route. The long corner offers a little of everything from fingers to OW, though the sections where the crack is anything other than perfect hands to wide cups are short.

The start is thin with softer rock and some delicate stemming holds, place gear despite the rather easy climbing. (thin or a #3 friend) then get up to the main crack and run from rest to rest. There are a great deal of no-hands-rest opportunities with stems, knee locks and ledges that make this a great climb for folks entering into this level of difficulty.

Location 

From the approach trail, look up and left slightly to an obvious long, right-facing dihedral with a set of hard-to-see anchors way way up top.

Protection 

Cams from fingers to the biggest one you have. A few small for the bottom, then #3 camalots for a long way with a 3.5 or #4-C4, then a wide piece on a sling, then back to #3 camalots until the crack goes to 'perfect hands' up top, 2.5-3" before a single smaller piece and the anchors.

Photos of Sabbatical 36 Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: The start.

Chad and Tony on Sabattical. In the foreground is...