A good climb with a few harder moves between rests and sustained sections. The particular area of difficulty will be dependent upon height, hand-size, skill, etc... In essence, YMMV.
But what will be universal is enjoyment of the route. The long corner offers a little of everything from fingers to OW, though the sections where the crack is anything other than perfect hands to wide cups are short.
The start is thin with softer rock and some delicate stemming holds, place gear despite the rather easy climbing. (thin or a #3 friend) then get up to the main crack and run from rest to rest. There are a great deal of no-hands-rest opportunities with stems, knee locks and ledges that make this a great climb for folks entering into this level of difficulty.
From the approach trail, look up and left slightly to an obvious long, right-facing dihedral with a set of hard-to-see anchors way way up top.
Cams from fingers to the biggest one you have. A few small for the bottom, then #3 camalots for a long way with a 3.5 or #4-C4, then a wide piece on a sling, then back to #3 camalots until the crack goes to 'perfect hands' up top, 2.5-3" before a single smaller piece and the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: The start.
Chad and Tony on Sabattical. In the foreground is...
|Comments on Sabbatical 36
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
You MUST belay your second up (trailing a second rope), it's much longer than a 70m.
Great route though, ends with perfect hands!
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Apr 23, 2008
Excellent route. I was thrilled to find this line had some face climbing right when there was a brief off-width section in the crack.