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The Slab
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$00pr kr33m S 
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Film Noir S 
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Just Another Boy's Climb T,S 
k00kEEz and krEEm S 
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Kr33m in the $33m TR 
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m1n1-kr33m TR 
Nasty Boys S 
Northeast Arete T 
Pen 15 S 
Prime the Pump S 
Return of Dow, The T 
s00kr33m S 
Shalohsh S 
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Sweet NiBLitz S 
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Trad kr33m T 
Undertow S 
Whipping Post S 

s00kr33m 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover/ original anchors and two directionals installed by Kurt Smith and Chris Beh
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, autumn
Page Views: 6,439
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Ted Lanzano on his FA.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route climbs the rainbow-colored, bulging wall right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon. Kurt Smith and Chris Beh installed the original anchors and two directional bolts circa 20 years ago, before the ban, but were unable to get back in time to finish the climb. It's been a long wait, but well worth the effort! Props to Kurt and Chris for their eye for a line, and thank you, Chris, for letting us finish it.

Climb two bolts up a thin vertical face on crimps to the base of the bulging section. From here, two nice-and-close clips take you up into the business -- five bolts total of very sustained climbing to get up under the big roof. Lots of slopers, lots of crimpers, lots of tech Beta on porcelain-hard rock that's some of the best sandstone I've seen anywhere, with none of the features quite as good or positive as they look from below.

Rest well under the roof (clip a long sling to this bolt), maneuver to the lip, then clip your final bolt and establish on the slab, to the anchors. Nice views of town from here, so take a moment. ... Both myself and Ted redpointed the route for its FA, today.

Many thanks to Open Space and Mountain Parks, the Flatirons Climbing Council, Flatirons FHRC, and the Access Fund for helping keep new-routing alive and well in the Flatirons; muchas gracias, as well, to Paul G for helping hump the big pack up the hill and with the equipping work. We used entirely stainless-steel half-inch bolts (some are 3.5" long, the others 4.75") and hangers, which should be good for a long while.

For my money, one of the best 5.13s in Colorado. The route is shady all day, save in the summer from 3 p.m. on.

Enjoy!

Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

Location 

One route right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon.

Protection 

9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.


Photos of s00kr33m Slideshow Add Photo
S00kreem sporting a long draw through the crux.
BETA PHOTO: S00kreem sporting a long draw through the crux.

Comments on s00kr33m Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 24, 2012
By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Nice work guys. This thing looks soo kreem, can't wait to try it. Also, thanks for all the work replacing hardware.
By Gary Burghoff
Nov 17, 2008

Nice work boys, should have called it HOnnEEEcuTTZZZZ.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 24, 2008

This route is cool. Needs more traffic, but it's still bomb.
Gotta get back to finish once this snow crap is over.

EDIT: Finished this yesterday, worth the effort.
Felt good to make that long deadpoint in the flow...
Cleaning up nicely now, get on it!
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Definitely worth the hype; 5 start route in a 5 star setting. Thanks Matt and Ted.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Great continuous route! Nicely done!
By K-dub
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

It's nice to have a new .13 in the Flatirons, and this route is worth doing for that reason. However, I was not particularly blown away with the climbing on this thing. It's basically .11- to an eight-move boulder problem with a hard clip to very sharp .11+ to a no-hands rest to a fun .10+ roof and then the weirdest, most awkward lip encounter you will ever do.
By Blake Cash
Aug 31, 2009

What's awkward about the lip? It's 5.10 if you know how to mantle. Amazing route...rad holds, solid rock, great setting.
By Fred Knapp
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Yes, it has rests and it's mostly a boulder problem, but the climbing throughout is very good and fun. An excellent route.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Mar 20, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Blake, agreed! The lip encounter here is pretty much a quintessential mantle move, one of the best around!
By Paul Glover
Jul 5, 2010

Who is this Kaelen chick and what's her problem? Isn't an "eight move boulder problem" nice and long as boulder problems go? and isn't a bunch of hard .11 what one would expect on easier ground on a hard route? What a knit-picky b#%@h!
By Stefan Griebel
Jul 14, 2010

I just had a good laugh on the nitpickiness over the case-sensitive funky spelling... From the description:

Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

Ummm, so wouldn't that be "s00krEEm". If you're gonna talk the talk, you gotta walk the walk. I'm just sayin'...

Great route though. Can't wait to get back on it and figure out the moves better.
By Pinklebear
Jul 14, 2010

Actually, s00krEEm went down to the courthouse yesterday and had its name changed. The new spelling is: s00kr33m. Like grains of sand washing up on the beach, ever changing, ever evolving, so too does it go with such a kr33m33 route name!
By Mark Rolofson
Jul 20, 2010

Hey Paul Glover, Kaelen Williams is not a chick. He is a 19 year old 5.13 climber. I climbed with him quite a lot & belayed him the first day he tried this route. He redpointed it on day 2.
As for the route, it's a great route. Very hard, too hot the day I tried it! Not an 8 move boulder problem. I believe Kaelen meant the business was like an 8 move boulder problem
By K-dub
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Whoa! Sorry for expressing an opinion! Look, I know it's not like people get to decide what the rock does; this isn't a gym. I fully respect everyone who spends the time, money, and energy to find and develop routes. This is a route that definitely deserved to be bolted, and I'm glad it was. However, I was simply giving my honest opinion of the route. It's obviously completely subjective, as many people seem to enjoy this route. If I had to rank all the 5.13s I've done, this one would be very near the bottom of the list. Before climbing this route, I had very high expectations because of all the positive comments on MP and 8a and, for me, it didn't live up to them; so, I thought people should be able to hear a different opinion of this route. Everybody doesn't have to like the same thing.

And as far as the mantle, I have been to font and done my fair share of mantling. Maybe I did it wrong, or maybe I'm just a punt, but for me it was very awkward.

And, as Mark so kindly pointed out, I am in fact male.
By Madaleine
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Fun learning how to grab a couple of the holds through the crux and get a foot up higher than comfortable.... Thanks all for this great route!
By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 5, 2011

Tried the route 6/5. I don't know Kaelen, and while I think one star is a bit harsh, it certainly doesn't compare to either 13s on Dino Rock. The crux moves may deserve 13-, but they aren't particular interesting. The rest of the route is actually pretty good, but I can see why someone wanting to get on a 13 would be disappointed.

Edit:
Went back again today, it actually climbed better the second time around. Crux required pretty subtle body position if the route is at your limit.
By Brady Robinson
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Loved it! Well worth a few hikes up the hill. I found the tall/weak/inflexible beta which really helped. Proper foot placement at the final lip is crucial.
By Ben Sachs
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I guess I sort of understand the complaints about the route, but damn, dude, it's pretty good! It is essentially a sandwiched long boulder problem with rests before and after the "meat". However, the climbing before and after the meat (the "bread"?) is pretty frickin' sweet on awesome rock. It's probably 5.11+/5.12- through these sections, so not trivial. Overall, an awesome, fun route and totally worthy. Not sure on the grade. Harder than $00pr kr33m.