According to the ruckman guide and this website, the 2nd(or 1st real) pitch of S crack on the thumb is described as a "chimney". We went up and did coyne crack this weekend and looked for this "chimney". Upon inspecting the guidebook and rappelling down from above pitch 2, all we found was this gorgeous #5 camalot crack that looks pretty OW, not "chimney".
2nd pitch "chimney"?
Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the correct pitch? I see no other alternative but have been known to make horrific judgement calls in the past. Directly to the right is the obvious 5.8R "Flake Variation"(not in photo). I find it odd that people who have claimed to have climbed this would call it a chimney. You'd have to be a squirrel to call this as such.
On the first ascent, when Mark McQuarrie led this offwidth, he just ran it out...don't think they had bongs that size...bold lead for an 18 year old in 1964. Interestingly, Wasatch Rock Climbs is the only of the 4 Little Cottonwood guides that lists this pitch as an offwidth and not a chimney.