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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Apr 15, 2013
adf
According to the ruckman guide and this website, the 2nd(or 1st real) pitch of S crack on the thumb is described as a "chimney". We went up and did coyne crack this weekend and looked for this "chimney". Upon inspecting the guidebook and rappelling down from above pitch 2, all we found was this gorgeous #5 camalot crack that looks pretty OW, not "chimney".

2nd pitch "chimney"?
2nd pitch "chimney"?



Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the correct pitch? I see no other alternative but have been known to make horrific judgement calls in the past. Directly to the right is the obvious 5.8R "Flake Variation"(not in photo). I find it odd that people who have claimed to have climbed this would call it a chimney. You'd have to be a squirrel to call this as such.

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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 15, 2013
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Just climb it you puss. It looks great. Don't ask for permission from the interwebdweebs.

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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Apr 15, 2013
that's the correct route, and with a little figuring out, you don't need wide gear and you don't climb the bottom half if you don't want to.

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By bsmoot
Apr 15, 2013
Me in the 70's
On the first ascent, when Mark McQuarrie led this offwidth, he just ran it out...don't think they had bongs that size...bold lead for an 18 year old in 1964. Interestingly, Wasatch Rock Climbs is the only of the 4 Little Cottonwood guides that lists this pitch as an offwidth and not a chimney.

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 15, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
LCC 5.8 what did you expect?

Spencer - you should add that to the S-Crack page.

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Apr 15, 2013
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gates <br />(i.e. 10 pitches to the tram station)
It's only an off width if ya gotta fat azz, for the rest it is a squeeze chimney :D

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By Brian in SLC
Apr 15, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Allen Sanderson wrote:
It's only an off width if ya gotta fat azz, for the rest it is a squeeze chimney :D


Don't make me bust out Sir Mix-a-lot on your boney backside...

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By tenesmus
Apr 25, 2013
Totally climbs like a chimney. The slab move getting into it is the only 5.8 move on that part. The rest feels like basic V-chimney.

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