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Gillette Edge
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S Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bill Dockins 1975
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 19, 2011

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Description 

The name should tip you off on what to look for...this is the striking S-shaped thin crack on the west face of the lower fin. Start up some face into a small wide slot and bust cruxy tips and face move over the small roof above the slot to an awkward pod, continue up flared thin hands to the top. Lots of variety and provocative positions!
This has been an area test-piece for a long time, and had stubbornly retained its original grade of .10a in the most recent guidebook. However, a Dockins .10a from the 70s is certainly no light matter and everyone I've talked to about the route feels it to be substantial sandbag, especially compared to many of the other longtime .10- routes around Butte and Bozeman. So, I've taken the liberty to upgrade it here...

Location 

Obvious S-shaped crack on west face of lower fin, about 200' around the corner from Gillette Edge (the route).

Protection 

Small stoppers to handsized cams, maybe a #4 for the slot down low, slings, chain anchors.


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