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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 
Better Left Undone T 
Four-Wheel Low T 
Fred and Barney's Crack T 
Junk Corner T 
Left Horseshoe Finger T 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 
Rednekk Justus T 
Right Horseshoe Finger T 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
S Crack T 
TH Crack T 
Three Blocks T 
Twenty Too Short T 
Unknown 5.9 T 
Unknown Awkward T 
Unknown Finger Crack T 
Unknown Fingers T 
Unknown Flake T 
Willy's Hand Jive T 

S Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn & Jim Newberry, 1978
Page Views: 9,371
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Matt Follows the bends on S Crack.

Description 

One of the best! This splitter, curving crack that starts off with some left-leaning finger section and just gets bigger from there. Bust the chicken wings out for the top.

Location 

This is past Redneck Justice and on a right-facing face. It is hard to miss. Soo aesthetic!!

Protection 

A few thin pieces all the way up to a #5. Only one of each probably.


Photos of S Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt doin' his thing.
Matt doin' his thing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mmmmmm.... good.
Mmmmmm.... good.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading the burly S-Crack.  Photo by Dillon Sar...
Me leading the burly S-Crack. Photo by Dillon Sar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon jamming S Crack.
Jon jamming S Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: S-Crack.
BETA PHOTO: S-Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up of me leading S-Crack.  Photo by Dillon S...
Close-up of me leading S-Crack. Photo by Dillon S...

Comments on S Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 31, 2016
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 2, 2008

The Jim's put no anchors in and they apparently down climbed it. At least that's what the legend is and when asked, Jimmy Dunn always changes the conversation to "I can't remember." I seem to remember Kenny Sims was somehow involved with this little route... who knows and it's better that way. Regardless of the suspect history of the route it's a fun climb.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A good friend of mine asked Jimmy Dunn about it, and Jimmy said that he had never climbed in Escalante(?).
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 11, 2010

I don't understand it, my partner red pointed Passion for Pumping which is 11+, and I flashed it with no gear to clean on TR. Then we went over and got on this, and he took a fall leading it. I fell 2 or 3 times in the same spot on TR, then had to hang in the last bit of the OW (pants!). I guess it could have been because we were so tired after all we got on a 9, 10, 10+, 11, and an 11+ the day prior. Pretty freaking hard either way.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That IS pretty crazy. For me, Passion is infinitely harder than S Crack.
By Martin Harris
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My buddy got on this thing and said it climbs really hard, but he is comfy on the OW. I think the thin lower part spanked him.
By Martin Harris
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Can I just say that Rednekk is wayyyyy harder than S Crack.
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 13, 2012

I suggest NOT taping for this pitch, as the crux sequence down low involves some reachy moves with bad feet in a tight #1 Camalot-sized crack (my nemesis). Definitely bring 2 #4 Camalots as well as a #5. This pitch has some of the best rock in all of Escalante!
By Shep
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Feb 20, 2015

S-Crack seems hard to a lot of people, because it has a healthy section of off-width. Off-widths always feel like a sandbag, 'cuz they're just all freaking hard whether they're 5.6 or 5.12.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 4, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Morning, the earlier the better. If the sun comes around on you, you're gonna die....
By Aaron Furman
Jan 31, 2016

So hard to read 5.10c, this thing kicked my ass. The only part I found easy was the #4-6 section offwidth. lol

What a perfect line though.

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