There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.
This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.
Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.
Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds.
|By Drew Hallett|
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO.