S-Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jimn Seiler on Jun 11, 2004 |
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Chris on the S-Crack.
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Southeast Reservoir was closed and is no.
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Description This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of the torture chamber. There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.
Protection Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.
Jimn on the S-Crack.
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BETA PHOTO: S-Crack, 4/5/2011.
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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d PG13
| This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.
Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds. |
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