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Elephant Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Columbian Crack T 
Heironimous Bosch S 
Just Say No S 
Pretzel Logic T,S 
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 
Rye Crisp T 
Sinsemilla T 
Tres Amigos S 
Wash Out T 
Wheat Thin T 

Rye Crisp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1960's
Page Views: 18,004
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (335)
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This climb begs to be photographed!

Description 

This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left. These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed. If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route. Consistent, long and varied. Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams. BEEEE-you-tiful

Protection 

Large gear is neccesary on this route. #4 cams are needed. a 60 meter rope is required for the rap. Traverse to the anchors for Just Say No, or use 2 ropes.


Photos of Rye Crisp Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.
Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route finding issues.
Route finding issues.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp
Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: Best 5.7 in the City??
Best 5.7 in the City??
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony on the lower flake.
Tony on the lower flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rye Crisp 5.8 in the City of Rock. The City isn't ...
Rye Crisp 5.8 in the City of Rock. The City isn't ...
Rock Climbing Photo: My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...
My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrei Zippy on Rye Crisp
Andrei Zippy on Rye Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly lookin' strong
Kelly lookin' strong
Rock Climbing Photo: Rye Crisp
Rye Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Rye Crisp
Leading Rye Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...
Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Not enough flake?  Still lie-backing the top out.....
Not enough flake? Still lie-backing the top out.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan at the start of Rye Crisp
Tristan at the start of Rye Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack gets bigger as you go up!
The crack gets bigger as you go up!
Rock Climbing Photo: Before the Crisp
Before the Crisp
Rock Climbing Photo: Rye Crisp flake action. September 2008.
Rye Crisp flake action. September 2008.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Beautiful Rye Crisp!
BETA PHOTO: The Beautiful Rye Crisp!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rye Crisp during a YMCA trip. I was 13 at the time...
Rye Crisp during a YMCA trip. I was 13 at the time...
Rock Climbing Photo: more flake
more flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Grab ahold of Rye Crisp and climb up the Elephant!
BETA PHOTO: Grab ahold of Rye Crisp and climb up the Elephant!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly top roping the flake of death.
Kelly top roping the flake of death.
Rock Climbing Photo: Go!
Go!
Rock Climbing Photo: Me gearing up for the most awesome flake ever
Me gearing up for the most awesome flake ever

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Rye Crisp Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004

5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 13, 2004

Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!!
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 10, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!

Really great route!
By Casey Jones
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 9, 2006

One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!!
By Armin
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2006

Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings.
By koji t
Jul 17, 2006

awesome. a must-do.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Feb 12, 2007

Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007

I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3.
By R Squared
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb f*cking rules!
By Ben2
From: Bend, OR
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Coolest flake ever.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 7, 2011

I agree with the above comment. This is hands down the coolest flake in the world. So fun I climbed it twice right in a row - great pump!
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can do this route with one #4 BD, just walk it with you, and a few medium to large size cams. Best route on the rock.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Sep 3, 2012

Amazing climb even though I ran into some major rope drag. I would suggest extending all runners prior to moving right on the flake. I led it with 1 #4 but 2 would be perfect.
By Kirk B.
From: Boise, ID
Feb 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found that if you protect too low or don't sling your pro long down low that rope drag can be a problem. Fabulous route, though.
By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013

Possibly one of the best 5.8's anywhere. The bottom can be protected with smaller cams 0.5-.75 if you look for them. Just use long slings. I used a large nut in on the face just before getting on the flake. 3.5 used for the traverse between the lower and upper flake. Two # 4's on the upper flake. Two # 2's and a #1 for the anchor or face climb L to the rap chains.
By Prametheus
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 21, 2014

Such an amazing lead, however, protecting the flake is most certainly questionable. Active gear, especially a large number 4, might rip out of the flake if a big whip occurs. My partner who followed remarked that he could feel the flake move when he pulled hard on it. We have all been taught not to protect in areas like these, but WOAH. This climb is so exciting, especially if you run it out a bit to reduce rope drag and make good use of your limited large gear. A MUST DO and the greatest 5.8 lead in the city.

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