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Elephant Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Columbian Crack T 
Heironimous Bosch S 
Just Say No S 
Pretzel Logic T,S 
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 
Rye Crisp T 
Sinsemilla T 
Tres Amigos S 
Wheat Thin T 

Rye Crisp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1960's
Page Views: 13,971
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (262)
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This climb begs to be photographed!

Description 

This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left. These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed. If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route. Consistent, long and varied. Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams. BEEEE-you-tiful

Protection 

Large gear is neccesary on this route. #4 cams are needed. a 60 meter rope is required for the rap. Traverse to the anchors for Just Say No, or use 2 ropes.


Photos of Rye Crisp Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.
Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.
Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp
Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp
Route finding issues.
Route finding issues.
Rye Crisp 5.8 in the City of Rock. The City isn't ...
Rye Crisp 5.8 in the City of Rock. The City isn't ...
My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...
My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...
Kelly lookin' strong
Kelly lookin' strong
Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...
Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...
Not enough flake?  Still lie-backing the top out.....
Not enough flake? Still lie-backing the top out.....
Love the flake on Rye Crisp
Love the flake on Rye Crisp
Kelly top roping the flake of death.
Kelly top roping the flake of death.
Grab ahold of Rye Crisp and climb up the Elephant!
BETA PHOTO: Grab ahold of Rye Crisp and climb up the Elephant!
Tony on the lower flake.
Tony on the lower flake.
Rye Crisp
Rye Crisp
Rye Crisp during a YMCA trip. I was 13 at the time...
Rye Crisp during a YMCA trip. I was 13 at the time...
What is under there?
What is under there?
Go!
Go!
Rye Crisp flake action. September 2008.
Rye Crisp flake action. September 2008.
The Beautiful Rye Crisp!
BETA PHOTO: The Beautiful Rye Crisp!
The crack gets bigger as you go up!
The crack gets bigger as you go up!
more flake
more flake
Leading Rye Crisp
Leading Rye Crisp
Tristan at the start of Rye Crisp
Tristan at the start of Rye Crisp
Me gearing up for the most awesome flake ever
Me gearing up for the most awesome flake ever

Comments on Rye Crisp Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004

5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 13, 2004

Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!!
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Jul 10, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!

Really great route!
By Casey Jones
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 9, 2006

One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!!
By Armin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2006

Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings.
By koji t
Jul 17, 2006

awesome. a must-do.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Feb 12, 2007

Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007

I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3.
By R Squared
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb f*cking rules!
By Ben2
From: Bend, OR
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Coolest flake ever.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 7, 2011

I agree with the above comment. This is hands down the coolest flake in the world. So fun I climbed it twice right in a row - great pump!
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can do this route with one #4 BD, just walk it with you, and a few medium to large size cams. Best route on the rock.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Sep 3, 2012

Amazing climb even though I ran into some major rope drag. I would suggest extending all runners prior to moving right on the flake. I led it with 1 #4 but 2 would be perfect.
By Kirk B.
From: Boise, ID
Feb 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found that if you protect too low or don't sling your pro long down low that rope drag can be a problem. Fabulous route, though.
By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013

Possibly one of the best 5.8's anywhere. The bottom can be protected with smaller cams 0.5-.75 if you look for them. Just use long slings. I used a large nut in on the face just before getting on the flake. 3.5 used for the traverse between the lower and upper flake. Two # 4's on the upper flake. Two # 2's and a #1 for the anchor or face climb L to the rap chains.
By justa beater
May 24, 2014

Does anyone have any recommendations for TR on this route I would love it if my wife could get up it...but she has never cleaned gear and doesn't feel comfortable seconding just yet...two ropes? Or would a 70m do the job I know there is chains to the left, should I leave some directionals?
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 29, 2014

Kellen, please don't TR a constantly-busy classic like this. It is just bad etiquette. Give your wife a chance to learn to clean gear and second long pitches and then take her up it. It will be a much better time for all.
By justa beater
Jun 2, 2014

Thanks Aerili, but I didnt ask what I should or shouldn't do. Not sure how setting a TR for a group of four or five to enjoy a classic like rye crisp is any different than leading and seconding two to three parties if anything we would spend more time for repeatedly leading, seconding and rapping the route. As for etiquette...this is climbing not golf.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 2, 2014

setting up a TR for 5 or 6 people on one of the most popular routes in the park, is indeed pretty lame. tons of other great routes of a similar grade in the area that would be a better choice. people will be breathing down your neck the whole time, complaining at you the whole time. i don't think it would be that enjoyable for your crew, much less everybody else.
By justa beater
Jun 3, 2014

So what you are saying is that I should lead and second up belayers 4-5 times and take even longer than just doing a TR for my crew? Hmmm seems a bit convoluted to me. I cant understand your logic are you implying that a crew can only consist of two people? Imposing limits on others because of your own beliefs is what I call lame. Guess I'll figure out the TR myself and we will all have fun. Funny how some of the pics here show several TR setups. And people breathing down my neck has never nor will never bother me. If im coming off as a jerk, sorry but I climb to have fun with my friends (plural) and family, anyone who doesn't like it can go find another climb. Perhaps I will stay up top and belay and lower my crew then rap down myself. Does that satisfy the masses?
By slim
Administrator
Jun 3, 2014

dude, you're the one who asked. judging by how upset you are getting i get the impression that you part of you can identify with the points that have been raised.

if i knew that people have probably travelled a bit to do this route, i would feel bad if i had it tied up for the day with a TR for a handful of people. this is a route that a lot of folks aspire to lead - it would be a shame to deny them that opportunity just so a handful of folks can struggle up it all day on TR.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 3, 2014

-Dear Beater-

If you are too inexperienced/ill-equipped to solve the T.R. problem you originally presented, take it as a sign that you may most probably lack the qualifications to "guide" your beloved friends and family up Rye Crisp.

Also realize that if you do set up a team toprope, (on a Saturday in high season???) you too would be imposing limits on others as a direct result of your "beliefs". This is climbing, not Nam, there are rules. I also suggest sticking with other more suitable "putt-putts" and "par 3's" before attempting this "master's course".
By justa beater
Jun 4, 2014

Wow how the elitism just spills from your comments, im always amused at people with this type of attitude...you cant join our club cause you cant lead, duh get a clue its public land and who gets there first has every right to top rope some friends who may lack the courage to lead it. How does one gain courage, through the security of a top rope(which will not be an all day event I even planned on doing I during the hot part of the day), not to be banished to the crap crags by elitist's like yourselves deem them worthy of the classics. People like you give climbing a black eye to those with aspirations of one day being a leader. Classics are open to all. Best part of all your high horse talk is not one of many legitimate questions was even addressed, only the one that sparked your elitist onslaught. Oh and I love the name calling its like im back in high school all over again
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 4, 2014

-Justa-

I hope we can meet in the future. I think you will find I am not a high-horse riding, elitist on-slaughting, black-eye giving name-caller who banishes aspiring lead climbers from public lands. I in turn hope to discover you are actually not a
puerile ignoramus:)
By slim
Administrator
Jun 4, 2014

sure, i guess you have a right to do it. that being said, other folks who show up have the right to complain to you and your friends. this isn't going to make you look like a leader.

you ask about setting up a TR, then say you are going to lead it... have you ever seen this route? my guess is that you probably don't have the gear to comfortably lead it. if it is even remotely close to your limit, you are probably going to want a lot of big gear.

there are a lot of fun routes at this grade that don't have a line 10 people deep (and not baking most of the day in the sun) at the city. i think you and your crew would have more fun on a route better suited to this sort of adventure.
By justa beater
Jun 4, 2014

After much consideration and research, it appears as though you all are correct. I apologize for my misunderstanding of how things go in the climbing world I am fairly new to the sport and my success as a blooming gear leader has obviously gone to my head a bit. I will instead pick two people to bring up top with me and have the others do something similar on another route. Thanks slim for the beta...im kinda a gear hoarder so I should have plenty of gear, so far my best at the city is sabbatical so hopefully I should do well on rye crisp. ..thanks again for the lesson in humility
By slim
Administrator
Jun 4, 2014

no worries man.
By zoso
Jun 4, 2014

You bought that Slim? Pretty obvious sarcasm. Win: Beater
By Prametheus
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 21, 2014

Such an amazing lead, however, protecting the flake is most certainly questionable. Active gear, especially a large number 4, might rip out of the flake if a big whip occurs. My partner who followed remarked that he could feel the flake move when he pulled hard on it. We have all been taught not to protect in areas like these, but WOAH. This climb is so exciting, especially if you run it out a bit to reduce rope drag and make good use of your limited large gear. A MUST DO and the greatest 5.8 lead in the city.