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This climb begs to be photographed!
This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left. These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed. If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route. Consistent, long and varied. Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams. BEEEE-you-tiful
Large gear is neccesary on this route. #4 cams are needed. a 60 meter rope is required for the rap. Traverse to the anchors for Just Say No, or use 2 ropes.
Rye Crisp flake action. September 2008.
Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp
Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...
Tony on the lower flake.
Kelly top roping the flake of death.
Kelly lookin' strong
Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.
My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...
Leading Rye Crisp
Tristan at the start of Rye Crisp
The crack gets bigger as you go up!
Love the flake on Rye Crisp
Rye Crisp during a YMCA trip. I was 13 at the time...
BETA PHOTO: Grab ahold of Rye Crisp and climb up the Elephant!
What is under there?
BETA PHOTO: The Beautiful Rye Crisp!
Not enough flake? Still lie-backing the top out.....
Rye Crisp 5.8 in the City of Rock. The City isn't ...
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004
5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock.
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 13, 2004
Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!!
|By Peter Gram|
From: Park City, UT
Jul 10, 2005
This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!
Really great route!
|By Casey Jones|
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 9, 2006
One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!!
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 16, 2006
Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings.
|By koji t|
Jul 17, 2006
awesome. a must-do.
|By Shaun Greene|
Feb 12, 2007
Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007
I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3.
|By R Squared|
Nov 25, 2007
This climb f*cking rules!
From: Bend, OR
Aug 24, 2008
Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top.
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 7, 2009
Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 18, 2011
Coolest flake ever.
|By Matt Schroer|
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 7, 2011
I agree with the above comment. This is hands down the coolest flake in the world. So fun I climbed it twice right in a row - great pump!
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 22, 2012
I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed.
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 24, 2012
You can do this route with one #4 BD, just walk it with you, and a few medium to large size cams. Best route on the rock.
|By Eric Haye|
Sep 3, 2012
Amazing climb even though I ran into some major rope drag. I would suggest extending all runners prior to moving right on the flake. I led it with 1 #4 but 2 would be perfect.
|By Kirk B.|
From: Boise, ID
Feb 13, 2013
I found that if you protect too low or don't sling your pro long down low that rope drag can be a problem. Fabulous route, though.