All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Base Area

Rutabaga

Name: Rutabaga
Rating: 3.6

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 2 pitches
GPS:	49.6827, -123.1482
FA:	Hiltner, Lewis, Kramer 1983
Page Views:	10,902 total · 49/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Sep 2, 2007
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Rutabaga is a nicely varied pair of pitches.

P1 climbs the obvious but somewhat awkward crack to a bolted anchor (10b).

P2 continues up and right on very fun cracks to the left facing dihedral. Face holds, good locks and good protection take you up the dihedral past one crux to the top crux which requires some solid stemming, and while the protection right at the crux isn't as good as the rest of the route, there are bomber placements about five feet lower.

Location

Right side of the Grand Wall base, just right of Arrowroot.

Protection

Standard Squamish rack for P1 to a bolted anchor.

For P2, a good selection of stoppers from small (but not micro) to large. You can place many stoppers so bring enough slings or draws. You'll also want a good selection of small cams and at least a 1 and 2 camalot. I'm told that a green alien is good at the top crux, but I didn't have one so I'm not sure.

Thanks to extra anchors to climber's left, the rappel from the top can be done with a single 70m and probably a single 60 (but not certain).