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Coco Crag
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Stupid Cat S 

Ruta de Roja 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007

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Follow the thin crack all the way to the chimney!

Description 

This route has a couple good moves but is lacking a distinct crux. Pro is somewhat mossy so be careful. This route is worth doing once while in the area getting the other routes ticked off. NOTICE: This route and Fontanar's descriptions and length in the Brock/McMillan guidebood are off; routes are at around 180 feet in length!

Location 

This route shares the same start as Fontanar; but after about 15 feet on the pillar; traverse right on big holds to the obvious thin crack. Follow this crack up to the chimney; climb through the chimney and up the face to build your anchor.

Protection 

Trad rack only with more of the small to medium sized wires and cams. Be a little careful; the varnished crack down low is a little mossy; make sure your placements are good. Up high, there is some friable rock so climb softly. No anchors; just walk off like you would on Fontanar de Rojo.


Photos of Ruta de Roja Slideshow Add Photo
Same start as Fontanar; in about five feet you should then start traversing straight right to the varhished crack.
Same start as Fontanar; in about five feet you sho...
Just starting the varnished "mossy" crack after the traverse.
Just starting the varnished "mossy" crac...
Follow the crack up past the left side of the bush; into the chimney; then straight up to the top of the cliff!
Follow the crack up past the left side of the bush...

Comments on Ruta de Roja Add Comment
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By Cultivating Mass
Apr 10, 2007

When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Slings at the top are gone. Had to traverse over to the anchors for the 5.8 sport anchors. PG-13 due to the lack of protection down low.