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Rusty's Cave 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rusty Garing
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Scott Bullock on Apr 3, 2003
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Description 

Rusty's Cave starts on the right side of the P-Wall near the detached buttress. The start is marked by a big pocket about 7 feet up. Climb the slab up to the diagonal crack and your first placement. Follow the uneven shallow crack for about 45 feet. Look for the first chance to traverse left(don't go to high). Clip the bolt and continue left for the small cave/ledge and the anchor.


Protection 

Nuts and TCUs plus one bolt. Two bolt anchor with rap chains



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By Theron Moses
Mar 7, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a great route! You can get a small cam into the back of the large hole at the bottom for a multi directional. The hand crack in the middle as awesome. It sucks up nuts or cams for bomber placements. The blocky terrain before the traverse takes gear well also. I placed a large nut and medium cam up a little high then down climbed a move and did the traverse. Don't go too high. The bolt is just around the corner as soon as you can go left. Go up and then left from the bolt. I ended up just above the chains and had to step down to them. The chains and bolts are not in great condition but John Knight has them on his list to replace. Use double slings on almost all the pieces because the route wanders so much. Sit in the cave and enjoy the view and the solitude before coming down.

By Nick Haupt
Dec 28, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is an allright route. The best part is most definitely the belay position. there is another pitch to this that goes at 5.7 and follows a shallow seam you face climb around and place crappy wires in. bring your moss edging shoes for this pitch.

By vincent L.
Jan 11, 2008

There is a lot more moss/lichen/algae , what ever it is , on the second pitch. More than there was last year. It makes the route more fun.

By Floyd Hayes
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Gnarly and unaesthetic. The first crack was fun but too short and too easy. The traverse was wild--and would be scary for a beginning leader or follower. The "cave" was disappointing--it was comfortable sitting on the ledge and belaying my partner but there wasn't enough space to comfortably accomodate two. We were planning on doing the second pitch but the lichen growth above the cave was thick and the logistics of switching positions with my partner were complicated, so I simply lowered her and then rappelled.

By Jim Reynolds
Jan 19, 2012

Led the second pitch of this a few weeks back (or Biemer's Trough as some call it.) It is surprising fun despite the sea of spongy lichen as key holds are clean-ish. It's not very run-out if you spend time with your gear placements.

By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 2, 2012

This climb features about one or two moves of difficulty - getting up the crack before the traverse. The traverse is heady, but easy. A decent route.

By Josterling
Apr 17, 2013

Did this route for first time today. Second pitch is awesome i thought easy,fun. not to dirty moves. those anchors at top are rusty though :0
Maybe traverse left at the top to the anchors more near the top of p crack? much nicer.