Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown)
Me leading "Rusty's Cave".
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This climbs a cupped hands corner to an OW roof. It starts out okay, but it deteriorates at the wide roof. The route requires some wide stuff for pro, or you can just punch it to the anchor.
This is roughly 100 feet climber's left of WHJ.
#3-#5 Camalots. Bolted anchor with rope and biner.
BETA PHOTO: Cupped hands corner to OW roof.
A picture from the base.
Me taking a rest inside the spacious pod at the to...
|Comments on Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown)
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Per Desert Rock, 'Rusty's Cave, 5.10". FA: Rusty Baille and Mark Craddock, 1978. Original descent, walk-off. The anchors kind of eliminate the crux up the final OW/palming mantle deal. Fun route with fairly good rock and a really cool, featured wide section.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 14, 2010
I TR'ed this one in tennies the other day, it was pretty well suited for it I thought. Also, I got wonderful stacked hands through most of the wide bit.
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Sep 21, 2010
I was there for the tennies send, but a number 6 was pretty clutch in the roof to protect the last bit before the anchor.
|By Eric Haye|
Oct 17, 2011
I think a #5 is the better piece for the roof as I couldn't get a #6 without it being way over cammed. 5.9+ is about right. Fun route with the right gear.
|By jeffro popko|
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
The top out is a fun 5.10 move, just because the anchors are where they are doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. The anchors are placed well and eliminate rope drag which is a constant problem out here.
|By george wilkey|
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 15, 2013
I thought this was a fun route, especially that move coming out of the cave. I used a #4 1/2, it was perfect.