|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||1950 Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden|
|Submitted By:||Stefano Prezioso on Apr 4, 2011|
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|Comments on Rusty Trifle||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 10, 2011
Overall a fun, almost-accurate 5.3 Gunks climb. The 5.5 start from the left has no protection for the leader or the follower for about 20 feet. A swing would scrape you up, but there are no corners to swing into and there's no ground fall potential. Also there are virtually no hands for a few of those 20 feet. The anchor at P1 (5.5) is small gear and tricams.
Pitches 2 and 3 were almost on grade, with great Gunky face climbing and plenty of protection. The only non-5.3 section was the last couple of moves at the very top of P2, I found them to be maybe 5.4 or 5.5-ish.
Definitely a sleeper climb and something I'd bring beginners on.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011
|Kevin, not sure what you are talking about with no pro for the first 20 feet. There are old pins and decent placements during the entire traverse. It's a great climb and the traverse adds some fun to the 5.3 pitches above. If you are a new leader, I would recommend skipping the 5.5 traverse and starting from the Bloody Bush ledge. Much fun climbing on this route.|
From: Olympia, WA
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing.|
From: New Paltz
Aug 4, 2015
Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.
Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.
From: New York, NY
Jan 30, 2016
|Overall liked the route. Thought the traverse protected quite well and there were sufficient holds if you find them. Thought the second pitch was the best- unusual to get such a fun roof at only 5.3. Also did the "Trusty Feet" variation which I'd recommend.|