Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route
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Doug getting a day off and getting in some climbin...
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This route is mistakenly called Rancid in the Haas/Schneider guide. The route climbs past 5 bolts with homemade hangers to a fist crack below the chains. The holes in the hangers are small and barely accepted the nose of my carabiners. For some reason, the fifth bolt hanger has a smaller hole than the others. I found this out while trying to clip. I gave the route a PG-13 for safety, because some of the hard moves are done well above the bolts. It looks like it was drilled on lead, so the bolts are at good stances and not necessarily at the hardest moves.
The route is about 60' right of Cracking Up
at the top of the scree gully south of the pinnacle. Descend from the fixed anchor at the top.
5 bolts to a two bolt rusty chain anchor. Optional #4 Camalot for the fist crack below the anchors. Big nosed biners like Wild Country Heliums will not fit some of the hanger holes.
By the last bolt and the crux.
BETA PHOTO: This is just left of the start, might not want to...
Good hole for dog protection.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
This is an interesting route. It can take additional gear to mitigate the fear factor: a sling around the horn before the first bolt, #1 Camalot between bolts 1 & 2, #1 Camalot just above bolt #2 and/or #3.5 Camalot to the left before bolt #3, a red Alien just above bolt #4, and possibly a #3.5 Camalot above bolt #5. It is fairly stiff going up on the face slightly left of the 5th bolt before you get the fist jams right...save something in the guns for that. Also, the chains are a bit small and rusty, and there are no hangers...just thin chains off the 2 bolt anchor.