Rusty Pipe 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Season: | spring/fall |
| Submitted By: | Rusty Pipe on Dec 29, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: zoom in for highlighted route
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Description Amazing route. the third pitch, the 200ft red dihedral may be the best 5.7***** anywhere. This adventure climb could be the one reason to visit the Hulapai Wall, and might be an Arizona Classic.
p1. 5.8 gray face to a gray dihedral 150ft
p2. 5.9 corner 130 ft
p3. 5.7 red dihedral 200ft
p4. wherever you wanna go several variations are available
p5. a strong party could unrope and solo easy 5th class in a variety
of ways for about 100ft to the top
Location lookers right of the Eagles Nest(the most prominent tower), on the main wall, Look for a reddish dihedral.
Protection gear is good
BETA PHOTO: detail approach (boriana mine to wall) ~1 mile. i...
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By Chris Robison
May 30, 2012
| anyone have beta on the descent? im guessing there are no bolted belay/rap stations? |
By Paul Davidson
Oct 7, 2012
| Walk offs, as I recall they are obvious.
But it's been almost 30 years so.... I think we came down the S side, right side in the overview pic. |
By Rusty Pipe
Oct 13, 2012
| We walked off to the climbers left which involved dropping down a steep gully, traversing a ledge, and stepping out on an intense catwalk (30/40ft long chocked boulder) that had lots of air underneath it. A truly remarkable feature, this "catwalk" allowed a crossing to a notch behind the "Angel" spire, then more descending down another steep gully, finishing out to the climber's left of the Eagles Nest. It was a journey.
If you walk off to climbers right you might be able to scramble down to a rappel route we used to get off of some of the other routes. There should be some slings there, but the place is convoluted so it may be difficult to find.
Yeah...if you like adventure, do this route, it is good! |
By smithb
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b
| Nasty approach, stellar climb, no snakes (April 6th). Next time, I'm taking gaiters and a plank to plow the man-eating shrubbery. Awesome rock, fantastic views, great pro, comfy belays - what more is there to ask for... oh yeah, fewer bushes. No fixed anchors.
P1 is a great warm up.
P2 is a bit of a sandbag with a pack on ~5.10a/b.
P3 is as good as it gets.
P4/5 -it has to end somehow...
Descent - yeah, more bushes. |
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