Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hualapai Wall
Select Route:
Eagle's Nest Rappel Corner 
Eagles Nest Direct 
Funky Butt Lovin 
Joy A. Love 
Rhino 
Rusty Pipe 

Rusty Pipe 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 1,446
Submitted By: Rusty Pipe on Dec 29, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: zoom in for highlighted route

Description 

Amazing route. the third pitch, the 200ft red dihedral may be the best 5.7***** anywhere. This adventure climb could be the one reason to visit the Hulapai Wall, and might be an Arizona Classic.

p1. 5.8 gray face to a gray dihedral 150ft
p2. 5.9 corner 130 ft
p3. 5.7 red dihedral 200ft
p4. wherever you wanna go several variations are available
p5. a strong party could unrope and solo easy 5th class in a variety
of ways for about 100ft to the top

Descent: Once topped out we walked left/north to the first major gully. There was some down scrambling until we reached a ledge where we turned left/south and made a move out onto "The Catwalk", an awesome feature that bridges over deep space to the "Angel of the Desert" spire. We continued trending south, around and behind that, and then down another gully, though some caves, and short down-climbs till we were shwacking down alongside the Eagle's Nest, and back to the base.


Location 

lookers right of the Eagles Nest(the most prominent tower), on the main wall, Look for a reddish dihedral.


Protection 

gear is good



Photos of Rusty Pipe Slideshow Add Photo
detail approach (boriana mine to wall) ~1 mile.  intense, thick bushwacking once out of the canyon
BETA PHOTO: detail approach (boriana mine to wall) ~1 mile. i...
Comments on Rusty Pipe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 12, 2012

Intriguing.

By Chris Robison
May 30, 2012

anyone have beta on the descent? im guessing there are no bolted belay/rap stations?

By Paul Davidson
Oct 7, 2012

Walk offs, as I recall they are obvious.
But it's been almost 30 years so.... I think we came down the S side, right side in the overview pic.

By Rusty Pipe
Oct 13, 2012

We walked off to the climbers left which involved dropping down a steep gully, traversing a ledge, and stepping out on an intense catwalk (30/40ft long chocked boulder) that had lots of air underneath it. A truly remarkable feature, this "catwalk" allowed a crossing to a notch behind the "Angel" spire, then more descending down another steep gully, finishing out to the climber's left of the Eagles Nest. It was a journey.

If you walk off to climbers right you might be able to scramble down to a rappel route we used to get off of some of the other routes. There should be some slings there, but the place is convoluted so it may be difficult to find.

Yeah...if you like adventure, do this route, it is good!

By smithb
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Nasty approach, stellar climb, no snakes (April 6th). Next time, I'm taking gaiters and a plank to plow the man-eating shrubbery. Awesome rock, fantastic views, great pro, comfy belays - what more is there to ask for... oh yeah, fewer bushes. No fixed anchors.

P1 is a great warm up.
P2 is a bit of a sandbag with a pack on ~5.10a/b.
P3 is as good as it gets.
P4/5 -it has to end somehow...

Descent - yeah, more bushes.

By Rusty Pipe
Nov 14, 2013

smithb,

glad to see a repeat of this route. And it seems that you enjoyed the climbing as much as I did, and hated the chaparral equally so. Though, we did find a route around the brush that worked pretty well after going up there a few times.

the sandbag...sorry for that...but not really. I do a lot of my climbing at Granite Mountain, the home place of Syndicatico Granitica, who were also the pioneers of the Hualapai wall, so I thought it would be appropriate for grades to reflect their rating system. Thanks for pointing it out though. I'll make a note of this on the main page.