Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
9 Wall (Feather Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butt-hurt Yankee, The T 
Glad I'm Not High T 
Gray Matter S 
Just Say Yes S 
One Hard Move TR 
One step forward T,S 
Pipe Dreams T,S 
Rad Trad T 
Rusty Oldtimer S 
TBD T 
Two Hard Moves TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Rusty Oldtimer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: MJMobes on Dec 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Felix leading Rusty Oldtimer

Description 

This climb was done a long time ago by someone who put in one 1/4 inch bolt to pro the whole climb. Pinch your way past the first bolt to a decent stance with a hand jam on the way, head strait up to the next bolt, pass an undercling/sidepull then mantle left of the third bolt and run up to the anchors. If you stay right of the third bolt and avoid the jug out left it goes at 10d.

A bit run out on top, make sure the belayer pays attention here.


Location 

center of the tall wall


Protection 

3 bolts



Comments on Rusty Oldtimer Add Comment
Show which comments
By tetrault
From: CT
Apr 29, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

as of 4/28/12 this wall (mostly the cracks on the climb to the left) is pretty infested with wasps

By micah richard
May 5, 2013

Nice moves, this whole wall has really great rock.