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Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
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99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Rusty Cage 

M7 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus: M7 [details]
FA: Steve House/Steven Van Sickle
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter/Spring
Page Views: 1,219
Submitted By: Steven VanSickle on Jan 19, 2014

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Steven VS approaching the top of the second pitch ...

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1. M4, 55m.
From the top of the approach/snow slope, climb up the gully for 50 feet (1 bolt), and then move right onto the the red slab that leads you into the Rusty Cage red line of rock which is the route. Clip the second bolt soon after leaving the main gully, a third bolt not much further on, and place a stubby screw in the one bit of ice on the route before climbing into easier terrain. The route steepens again, and one bolt protects an easier-version of what is to come, stemming and dry tooling. Exit left to a small ledge and two bolts on the far left side of the ledge under a tiny spruce tree and a protective roof.

Pitch 2. M6, 30m, 5 bolts.

Step down and right into the groove and continue to follow the rusty strip. The first bolt is a self-drive and was the only bolt placed on lead on this pitch initially. Climb past the steep bulge into easier terrain. At the base of a steep and rotten roof look left and climb to a 2-bolt anchor under a roof with a very slopey, but very protected, belay stance.

Pitch 3. M6. 50m, 6 bolts.
Follow the red strip of rock up and through the rotten roof. Pull fun steep moves right around the corner, now protected by bolts, and get back into the groove and climb up towards another vertical wall. A bolt (often covered by snow) in the face to the right of the corner points the way. After stemming high, step right around the corner with the bolt near your waist. Continue up the groove another 50 feet, and keep an eye out for a small ledge with two belay bolts fifteen feet right of the groove. Hint, the belay is not on the big horizontal snow ledge. If you get there, you went to far.... The belay is placed here as it's the safest location from rockfall we could find.

Pitch 4. M7, 50m, 8 bolts.
The crux pitch. Head straight up the groove, do some delicate moves that lead you into the rusty cage. Stem your way out of the rusty cage (a 0.75 is nice before turning the roof). Belay off bolts on the left.

Pitch 5, M5, 55m, 3 bolts.
Finish up the groove with a surprisingly difficult rock step and finally a ice/snow slope to a tree.

Location 

This route is the first red stripe left of The Ribbon (the next red stripe left and parallel is Desperado). Approach as for The Ribbon, and continue into the gully just left of the The Ribbon's start.

Protection 

A full set of stoppers including RPs. A full set of cams from 0 Metolius to 4" with double 0.75". People unfamiliar with this type of climbing may want more 0.25"-2" pieces. There are two fixed pins on the route, so you probably don't need to bring your own as long as you leave these there for the next party.


Photos of Rusty Cage Slideshow Add Photo
Steve House placing a self drive on the start of the 2nd pitch.
Steve House placing a self drive on the start of t...
Steve escaping the rusty cage, kind of reminded me of Bruce Lee playing ping pong with nunchucks.
Steve escaping the rusty cage, kind of reminded me...
Rusty Cage route. X represent 2-bolt (all-stainless hardware) anchors rigged for rappelling. Anchors may be hidden under snow-mushrooms, especially the third.
BETA PHOTO: Rusty Cage route. X represent 2-bolt (all-stainles...
Steven VS approaching the first belay on the first working-day on Rusty Cage. Note that there was quite a bit of ice then (early December 2013), but this ice was mostly gone by mid-January 2014.
Steven VS approaching the first belay on the first...
Steven VS coming up the first part of the first pitch (about 60 feet into the initial gully) on the first day of working on Rusty Cage.
Steven VS coming up the first part of the first pi...
Steven VS approaching the 3rd belay stance. At this point, he has just exited the steep section of pitch 3.
Steven VS approaching the 3rd belay stance. At thi...

Comments on Rusty Cage Add Comment
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By hkennedy
Jan 23, 2014

Had a chance to climb on this route a few weeks ago. This route is a great intro to the chosshounding scratchfest, because it has bolts, which is very nice. I still think this route is serious, because falls on this terrain are dangerous. The bolts can be hard to find if the wall has lots of snow, but they are there, just gotta dig! Thanks for all the work, Steve!
By j wharton
Jan 24, 2014

The Roberts' guide mistakenly labels this as Walk The Line. SH and and I spoke with Jeff Lowe in person, and he assured us his route (which he actually call Snowblind Friend was farther to the left). This is a nice route, that clearly took a fair bit of work--thanks Steves! Jim Turner and I climbed the route last week and had a great time. I'd echo HK's comments. Don't expect a safe outing, but the bolts keep it reasonable.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 24, 2014

Calling out Steve House, Josh Wharton, and Hayden Kennedy? Sheesh! I would think that you've lost any credibility right there.