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 ADVANCED
Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
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Dobie Gillis Route, The T 
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Rusty Bong 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: C Runyan on Sep 5, 2008

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Description 

A left-leaning crack in a corner system that rewards good jam/stem/lieback technique. The exit moves through the roof are a bit tricky, and can be difficult to protect. (The eponymous rusty bong has been removed from the crack and was last seen several years ago.)

Location 

Start at the base of the huge, left-facing corner/crack system.

Protection 

cams up to #3 camalot


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By Bob Johnson
May 25, 2014

The chimney to the left above Rusty Bong is VERY unstable. I was climbing this yesterday, got to the chimney, stood up and about 1000 pounds of rock pulled out and tumbled down the face of the cliff. Unbelievably, none of us were hurt. There is still probably a lot of loose rock up there. Due to the rock fall, there is now a large boulder on the ledge halfway up that is loose and is ready to fall.