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 ADVANCED
Steele
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(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) T 
(un-named) 5.7 arete T 
5.8 Corner T 
Aura T,S 
B-52 T 
Banana Route T 
Bird's Nest Crack T 
Black Magic T 
Butter D Licious S 
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dreadlock T 
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Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) S 
Meathooks S 
Minnie Driver S 
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Monopoly T 
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no name (on Wolf Wall) T,S 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The T 
Papillon T,S 
Penchant T 
Petrified T 
Polar Express T,S 
project on Wolf Wall S 
Psycho Killer S 
Putting Out the Vibe T 
Renegade Trad S 
Resistoflex T 
Rockwa S 
Rustler S 
Scooter Girl T 
Song of the Cows S 
Steele Head T 
Stepping Out T 
Sting  T 
Stories T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Suspended Animation T 
Three Pitch T 
Tornado on your Birthday T 
Triad T 
Uncertain Return T 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. T 
unnamed trad on wolf wall T 
Vineland T,S 
Walk the Line T 
Welcome to Steele T 
Wendy's Finger Crack T 
Wolfe-Waites T 
Wolverine T 
Wrangler T 

Rustler 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: *
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: A. Hamiter on Dec 26, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Rustler.

Description 

  • Equipped and climbed by A. Hamiter (2010)

follow a direct line of crimps and jugs up a yellow and black streaked face. Pull a short roof via jugs, getting a bit of exposure, heel hook, and wrestle more jugs to the anchors. One of the most bullet routes at Steele.


A few hours can be spent in this area, if not all day. There are lots of classics in and around this area. The 5.8 dihedral, several unnamed 5.8-9 gear climbs down the hill next to Wrangler, Golden Arch is a classic and waits down the hill. Further down the cliff line are several bolted climbs, B-52-mixed, Full Moon BBQ-fully bolted/no anchors, and Song of the Cows. Full Moon BBQ is the best of the three, just remember to set up webbing or have a 2nd that can climb the grade.

Location 

Starts 20 feet right of an obvious 5.8 dihedral on a yellow and black streaked face. These routes are located left of Wolfe Wall just before the Jolly Roger/Evil Is Cave on a high terrace path.

Protection 

6 bolts. Two Fixe hangers with quicklinks and locking biners at the top. These hangers and biners will be changed out in the coming weeks with rings. These are not your booty and are only there to serve the purpose of convenience until the rings can be installed.


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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 3, 2011

The original trad route began off the opening ledges on small edges and underclings in the area under the black streaks. The route followed up and in the vicinity of the streaks and finished through the same weakness in the roof. It was done on small wires and old school cams and was rated 5.10b/c R maybe. We had to brush some of the holds in the area of the streaks due to the black mold and dust and what not. I'd rapped over it recently and noticed that to be resurrected, the holds would need to be brushed again. It was a pretty good trad route....proud, committing....and i wished it had been left alone because there are not that many worthy, complete trad routes in this area.