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Spiral Staircase area
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Rust Never Sleeps 

WI5- M5+ PG13

Type:  Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus: WI5- M5+ [details]
FA: Rob Griz, Elias de Andres Martos
New Route: Yes
Season: Dec-April
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Mar 18, 2010

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Out through the curtain on the 2nd crux.


For those of you who relate to one of the most timeless flicks of all time, 'Animal House'. The Staircase area can definitely become much like 'Animal House' (including the booze, trust me!) on a busy day, so here is another great line to spread the "party" thin. Right of the prow that forms Secret Probation, an overhanging start leads to a roof bolt and thin face ice (stick clip). Pumpy, committing moves put you on the face ice and up to a second bolt that will just barely keep you off the ground (the only place the ice would allow, unless you want to hang in the crux ice and try n' stick a stubbie). From the second bolt, head up (left, right or stem) to a sizeable ledge with great moss sticks and incuts. Reach high and tag the 3rd bolt before stemming on delicate and hollow ice, up right. Head up the 'clear-cut' we sawed through the saplings and such to the snowy ledge, sharing the burly anchor with Secret Probation (slightly to your left). This is a fickle route and may not always form up as fat as the FA. It may be possible to climb it dry at M9+

As Neil Young put it..."Better to burn out, than it is to rust".


The route starts 10' right of the classic Secret Probation on a concave face to a roof bolt. Climb the thin cicles next to the blank face above. Rap from the top.


3 bolts, 2 stubbies (for psychological prowess). Shares an anchor with the climb left, Secret Probation. Bring a good belayer.

Photos of Rust Never Sleeps Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave pulling through the crux.
Dave pulling through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fine footwork.
Fine footwork.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the first clip.
Making the first clip.

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