Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Grey Slab
Select Route:
Rust Never Sleeps 
Unknown - Grey Slab 

Rust Never Sleeps 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 6, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Adam on Rust Never Sleeps. Low tide, perfect weat...


Rust Never Sleeps is the left of two routes on the Gray Slab. Start by traversing left across slab above crashing waves until you reach the first bolt. Then continue moving up and left on quality slab moves to the second bolt and up to the top. Lots of fun but probably best for a confident 5.10 leader.


There are two bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, but no rap chains, so the last person to climb usualy walks off the right side of gray slab (5.3). You can also set up a top rope by soloing the arete first.

Falling before the first bolt would not be fun, and you have to traverse a long way on slab before you get to it (5.8).

Ropes often end up wet too.

Photos of Rust Never Sleeps Slideshow Add Photo
Often you don't want to be standing like this while belaying... if I fell Adam would have been pulled straight off his feet.   <br />There's a good spot to belay by sitting right there though. <br />Photo by Chris Tirrell.
Often you don't want to be standing like this whil...
Craig reaching the top of Rust Never Sleeps.
Craig reaching the top of Rust Never Sleeps.
Comments on Rust Never Sleeps Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Feb 6, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

I did this climb for the first time in a couple years and it really seems to have been battered by the sea. The holds seem to have disappeared and some of the face is getting a little crumbly. Still a great climb, but harder and scarier that I remembered it!

By jimi thornburg
Jun 23, 2011

There is bomber gear about 10 feet up on the way to the first bolt. A yellow and a red metolius mastercam (or equivalent) fit in a short diagonal crack. This climb is not crumbling. It's the same as it was 25 years ago.