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 ADVANCED
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anthurium S 
ATC T 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
Devo T 
Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
Grim Reaper T 
Grubble Gully T 
Hangman, The T 
Heart of Gold S 
Heva TR 
Hooker T 
I've Been Sick T 
Inflorescence S 
January Playmate T 
January Rush T 
Larch, The T 
Leapfrog T,TR 
Lips Like Sugar S 
Low Profile TR 
Nails to Nowhere T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pepe le Peu T 
Peter's Out T 
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 
Plinth T,TR 
Prime Time Climb T 
Resisting Arete T,TR 
Roof's Way T 
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 
Rush Buick T 
Russian Arete T 
Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
Siberian Khatru T,TR 
Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stranglehold T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
W 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

Russian Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle & Stanislav Zinkov ?? (Jan. 2013)
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Cor on Mar 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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At the anchor. It's a little spooky stepping down...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

We are not sure if this one had been done before....

It has good, spicy arete climbing with some fun, wild walking left above the roof edge at the top. Good exposure.

Location 

It is at the bottom of Hawk Eagle Ridge, up on a ledge to the right of Lips Like Sugar.

Walk to H.E.R. like usual, but continue up draw, like where you would be descending from the Wind Tower/Wind Ridge. After going past the turn off for H.E.R., look for a short slab on your left to scramble up. Gain the ledge, and walk across to the start, which is where the ledge ends (actually pinches off..).

This is to the left of Bikini in the Levin Eldo book.

Start up arete by branching in from the right, getting some protection. Gain the arete out left, and punch it up to the roof area. Get more gear, and head left wild walking along the roof top edge of Lips Like Sugar. End/lower from L.L.S.'s bolted anchors above the roof.

Protection 

Single rack to BD #3.


Photos of Russian Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the arÍte.
Starting up the arÍte.
Wayne Crill heads up Russian Arete for its 2nd? ascent!
BETA PHOTO: Wayne Crill heads up Russian Arete for its 2nd? as...
At the roof.
At the roof.
Starting the arÍte.
Starting the arÍte.

Comments on Russian Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 13, 2014

This route doesn't look like much from a distance, but it packs a lot of cool climbing with wild position into a short distance. The gear is pretty bad, if you blow it on the arete you will probably deck. It wouldn't be as scary if it was brushed a little.... Even clean, it would still be scary and awesome!