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Shaun Miller starts up the route.
This route used to be a 5.10b until a key hold in the crux broke making it a 5.12a. So, essentially the route is a hard 5.9/easy 5.10 with a 5.12 move on the roof section. The route begins in a crack just to the right of a large overhanging roof. Climb the crack to the roof and traverse to the left. Here you will find a critical series of 3-4 moves to conquer the roof. There is a bolt on the roof which you may want to clip on toprope to avoid an undesirable swing (especially if you might be there for awhile). Once you conquer the roof, follow the crack to the top where you will make a zigzag to the left before reaching the anchor.
The toprope requires a class 4-5 down climb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the down climb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
Myke Komarnitsky at the difficult crux roof.
Shaun trying the same.
Dan Morta attempts the crux of Rush Hour.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 23, 2001
I think that .12 might be a little high for the grade on Rush Hour. My guess is that it it more like .11 b/c.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Jul 31, 2004
I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book.
From: Longmont, CO
May 9, 2007
Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 7, 2008
After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lotsa guano below the roof.
|By They call me Sam|
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 25, 2010
I do agree it was a 12 move, but somehow can't give it a 12 rating seeing as it finishes so easy. For you taller folk, did you have to use an intermediate after the left hand 3 finger shelf? If not, I can see how that makes it easier. At least with my foot smear, I def had to use that intermediate.
Jun 11, 2011