|Redgarden - Tower One
I am listing this separately in the hopes of attaining more info, and because this route shares only the first 15 feet of climbing with Ruper, and from it, one can not get back to the the Ruper line. A line was in Rossiter's old book, Boulder Climbs South and is no longer present. Andy Donson suggested this line to me as an alternative to lower Grand Giraffe when we arrived at the same time and place.
I am interested in the history of this line and on what others think the grade/runout of it is like.
To climb a 5.8 variation of lower Ruper or lower Grand Giraffe, start as for Ruper and climb up the thin crack for 15 feet. At this point, a small tree is to your left (with slings) and the route goes right. Rather than going right, the route stays left. You keep going straight up, staying near the arete and climbing up to a point below the left-leaning, thin-crack section of Grand Giraffe. Staying lower and left of that section both avoids drag and to covers new ground and unique ground. After perhaps 30-35 meters, you reach the ledge from which you can left to climb the easy, wide pitch of Grand Giraffe to reach the belay below the OW on Grand Giraffe. This can be done in under 60 meters if you don't wander your rope around too much with gear. Finish on Grand Giraffe, Electric Aunt Jemima, or Art's Spar.
A normal Eldo rack including a good selection of stoppers & cams. There are short runouts above reasonable gear, but is on par for Eldo at this grade.
|By Greg D|
Jan 6, 2008
Tony, I'm not surprised there are no comments for 5 years on this one. You seem to have created a route out of thin air. It is just a slight variation to the "regular" Grand Giraffe. It is excellent though, as I have just climbed both variation in the last two months. To do it, just start up Ruper and continue more or less straight up taking the most direct and obvious line for 50 feet or so. Step right a few feet and climb the left of the two left leaning cracks (one pin near its start) for 50 feet to the large ledge which is the start of Rossiter's P3 of Grand Giraffe. The right crack with two pins near its start is the P2 described in Rossiter's Grand Giraffe. He mentions the left crack in his P2 description as "The slot to the left is 10 and seldom done". We thought this was a great pitch, interesting, direct, pretty well protected and sustained at 8/9, not quite 10, 100 feet, and a great way to combine the first two pitches of Grand Giraffe.
Your rating of 5.8+ is misleading as the easiest route above, Grand Giraffe, is 10a which you are pretty well committed to.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Actually I have not created anything - the route appears in old guidebooks as its own line (i.e. Rossiter's older BCS book) but is not printed in more recent books. It was rated 5.8+. I'll look to the new book coming out next year for more info.
This pitch in particular is in the 8/9 range as you and I have agreed, and that is what the rating I have suggested reflects.