|West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
This is an old Mike Brooks, Kyle Copeland aid route (5.9 A2) between Initial Route and Super Scooper.
P1: Climb the left side of a sharp fin to a slab (5.8).
P2: Crank out a roof crack, then hand traverse left to a hanging, right-facing corner, and follow this to a tree (5.12a).
Rap 90 feet to the ground.
This is a big roof with big holds, knee bars, and some good movement.
The right side of the Super Scooper buttress, approxinmately 200 feet above the creek.
Include a #4 Camalot. There is a fixed wire, and several fixed pins (all good- we tested with a hammer).
|By Chris Beh|
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13
It is easy to top rope this climb off the tree at the top of Super Scooper with a 70m rope (you'll need 2 cordelettes or 4-8 slings to get the rope in position and back the tree up. I used a slung horn). Runsholl is fun, steep and pumpy. The pins can be clipped on the way down for convenient directionals. You scored freeing this, Steve. Very surprising it wasn't free climbed until 2006.
|By kevin murphy|
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Nov 7, 2009
CAUTION: A crucial hold broke that was right next to the fixed nut, the fixed nut fell out. What's left is flexing. It may stay, it may not. Dammit!!!
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
Dec 20, 2009
Damn Murphy, you know these delicate routes can't stand the repeated abuse of being seiged like that?! Lotsa love, buddy.
From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 30, 2012
I fell twice on this route after breaking two different big holds. I'm not sure if it is harder now. I think a #4.5 Camalot is better than just a #4, and this route is PG-13 due to the ledge you will hit if you blow gear at all. Fun moves, 5.10d from the pins up. No fixed wire.