||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1500', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C1 R [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Abbott and Tim Wolfe, Sept 1998|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||467|
|Submitted By: ||Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Runnel Out close up photo
This route required significant skill with gear placement due to the fact that most of the cracks are actually water runnels that bottom out (hence the route name). Despite its short length it seemed very committing. There are one or two moves on pitch 5 that we pulled on gear - dirty steep crack - probably 5.10 if cleaned out. This route is either 1 or 2 stars - depends on how much you like to be scared.
Approach: Follow the East Chimney route about 1000 feet through the 3rd and 4th class sections to the crux steep chimney (or the steep face immediately to the chimneys right). Climb this East Chimney crux to the section that flattens out and begins to traverse to the left. At the top of this steep section there is a roof directly above with a double crack that splits the left end of it. This is the first pitch of the South East Buttress "Runnel Out" Route.
Pitch 1: 5.9 Climb right to a flake and up to the left side of the roof Climb up the double cracks (increasingly difficult) until they end, then face climb a short distance up and slightly left to a small ledge to belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10a R Link disconnected water runnels and face sections to an open book that ends at a small roof and a white dike. This is a scary lead.
Pitch 3: 5.8 Traverse left on the white dike past a small left facing corner to a right facing corner topped with a small roof. Climb up this, through the roof and up the crack until it widens.
Pitch 4: 5.9+ Climb the widening crack/chimney until it eases up, then up to an overhang with a small stance.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Al Climb left from the stance to a flake, pull up the flake and left into a thin crack through a small bulge. This bulge was choked with grass and dirt, which required several Al moves but will probably go free at 5.10 now that it is cleaned out. Belay in the large red corner above (probably can connect pitches 5 and 6).
Pitch 6: 5.9+ Climb the large red dihedral to the roof that caps it. Climb out the left leaning crack through the roof and belay in an alcove.
Pitch 7: 5.7 Climb out the left leaning crack and broken face for about 120 feet to a sloping ledge. At this point the first ascent team rappelled down to an obvious escape ledge near the top of the east chimney route and climbed out the gully due to the lateness of the day. Many nice looking corners and cracks exist directly above this sloping ledge.
Approach: Follow the East Chimney route about 1000 feet through the 3rd and 4th class sections to the crux steep chimney (or the steep face immediately to the chimneys right). Climb this East Chimney crux to the section that flattens out and begins to traverse to the left. At the top of this steep section there is a roof directly above with a double crack that splits the left end of it. This is the first pitch of the Runnel Out.
We had a standard rack of cams, wires and micronuts. I would think some tricams and TCU type gear might be useful.
BETA PHOTO: Topo map of "Runnel Out" on South East B...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Ambush South Face with the route "...